1926 Front fender order of assembly.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2010: 1926 Front fender order of assembly.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 10:20 am:

Just making sure. I am assembling the body for my 1926 coupe and it has been so long, Im not sure of the assembly order of the front fenders and related components. Is the below list, I have made from memory, the correct order of assembly for one side?:

1. Side splash shield
2. Running board (w/oak spacer blocks)
3, Front fender
4. Hood shelf wooden blocks
5. Hood shelf
6. Radiator
7. Radiator to cowl support rod
7. Front splash apron
8. Radiator shell
9. Hood latches
10. Hood

Thank you

Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By CharlieB-Toms River N.J. on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 10:43 am:

Believe the shelf and blocks can go on anytime but the list seems sound otherwise. Also would it not be easier to install the latches onto the shelves before mounting them?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 10:58 am:

Yes Charlie. According to the Model T Service manual, the latches can go on the shelf before assembly. Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Bohlen on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 11:03 am:

Jim,

There is a very good explanation in the Ford Service Book. Near the end for the Improved Car.

I agree with Charlie, the hood latches and blocks should be put on before the hood shelves.

Also you have to put the front splash apron(under the radiator) on before the Radiator. You can also put the Rad shell on before you mount the Radiator (keep the mounting screws a bit loose so you can adjust and tweak the fit a bit with the hood if necessary.

I think you have the order for all the Radiator mount hardware, springs inner thimble under the Radiator bracket with it's spring and the outer thimble with the nut and cotter at the end.

I would set everything a little loose as you go so you can adjust bit by bit.


Good luck.
Larry Bohlen
'27 touring


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 11:36 am:

With all due respect Larry, I can't imagine how the radiator shell could go on before the radiator since the shell surrouinds and covers the radiator and the mounting brackets. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 12:27 pm:

See this hand sketch.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By CharlieB-Toms River N.J. on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 12:32 pm:

I think he means the shell can go on the rad. before you install the rad. It can but it's easier (to me) to handle one at a time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 01:39 pm:

Thank you.

I have been studying the fender pictures in the 1926 section of Bruce McCalley's book and unlike earlier Models where the hood shelf fit up to and behind the radiator shell, the hood shelf of the 1926, goes on top of the fender and extends all the way to the backside of the splash apron, under the radiator brackets. My main question now is: Does the splash apron go above or below the radaitor brackets? I'm going to need to experiment to determine the most exact fit, but I think I have at least got a general picture of the correct order. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Bohlen on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 02:14 pm:

Jim,

Charlie is correct and sorry for any confusion.
What I was trying to say was you can mount the shell on the radiator before mounting the Radiator on the car.

Front splash apron goes over the hood shelves and under the Radiator brackets.

I just this summer went through this little excersise replacing the front motor mount/spring clamp and putting a new nickel shell on the car.
It's a bit of a puzzle but it will fall into place pretty easily.

Any one here got a photo from the Service Manual they can post that will show it all.

See my profile for photo.

Good luck.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 02:26 pm:

Here is one, the Service Book pretty well tells the story.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 03:23 pm:

Not all splash aprons are alike. Perhaps aftermarket? On the 26-27 there is a screw hole on the front of the engine support/spring clamp. You can tell where it goes when the crank hole lines up with the hole in the front of the crankcase and the screw hole lines up with the hole in the engine support. That position is under the hood sill, and I believe it is over the wood block. In any event it is below the radiator.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 03:48 pm:

Thanks Norman. Great observation! My splash apron is original to the car and does have that hole which I will need to line up as you say. According to the page Dan posted from the Service manual, the correct position of the splash apron in on top of the hood shelf. Here is the revised order based upon what you all have taught me thus far:

1. Side splash shield
2. Running board (w/oak spacer blocks)
3. Front fender
4. Hood blocks and hood shelf (with latches)
5. Splash apron
6. Radiator spring with flanged cup.
7. Radiator
8. Radiator to cowl support rod
9. Radiator shell
10. Flangeless cup, castle nut, cotter pin
11. Hood

Thank you all.

Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 04:59 pm:

There is a spring which goes under the frame. The flat strap iron type nut goes under the frame with a cotter pin to keep the stud from turning out of the nut. Here's what I do to make the job easier. I put the stud in place with the spring under and the spring over the all the parts except the radiator with flanged thimble and tighten the nut then I put a block of wood below the strap nut under the frame. After this I remove the top nut and install the radiator and top thimble. That wood block keeps the spring under the frame compressed so that I can get the nut on after everything is assembled. When I get everything bolted up, I remove the wood block.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Bohlen on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 07:36 pm:

Dan,

That's the one I was thinking of.

Looks like Jim's got it now.

Thanks,
Larry


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Arnie Johansen on Wednesday, October 20, 2010 - 07:40 pm:

Dan:

If you put the latches in the hood shelves make sure the washers will fit it the holes. Some modern washers have to big of an outside diameter


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 11:53 am:

The above order posted by me on October 20 at 3:48, seems to be correct, as everything is going together very nicely.

One more question. I need to know where the two engine pans (3084-5C) on each side of the engine connect to on the chassis. I know they rest on top of the engine block flange and are secured by several of the block to pan bolts, but am not sure where they connect to on the chassis. Do they sit on the top of lower lip of the channel between the upper and lower legs of the channel or do they connect to the underside of the frame channel? Thank you. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gerald L Leirer on Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 12:57 pm:

Jim,
I just went out and looked at the 26 Fordor, the pans are under the engine pan and under the frame. So, technically you could remove the engine and not remove the pans.

Jerry Leirer
Bradenton, Fla


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gerald L Leirer on Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 01:02 pm:

I guess I should have said "under the oil pan and under the frame rails."

Jerry Leirer
Bradenton, Fla


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Sunday, November 28, 2010 - 04:02 pm:

Thank you Gerald. I was thinking the engine pans should go on top of the block flange because there is a lip that curls down and goes around the engine oil pan flange creating a recess that would keep the engine pans from fitting flush. Jim Patrick


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