Lost a couple of the screws, and the others keep loosening up. Needless to say, this leads to an incredible amount of oil loss.
What is the metric size that will work to replace the originals?
I've seen the size mentioned in an earlier discussion. It's an unusual size, but not metric.
They are either 1/4" x 24 or 14 x 24 screws...sorry, but I forgot which one.
The vendors have them:
Bendix cover screw
I am looking for the metric "quick fix" size. They self lock :-).
6mm/1.0 x 12 mm, pretty much a standard size.
Original is 24 tpi, 1.0 is 25.4 tpi, of course; just close enough it binds at about 1/2" depth.
I use hex socket head screws, as they are easy to hang on the end of a long allen key for inserting.
6/1.0 is also great for flywheel ring gear and slinger screws.
6mm will work as a replacement, better to get the correct ones.
I came close to destroying the engine in a rainstorm in Russellville, Ark, when "correct ones" came loose. No thanks.
If you can get the correct size with a hex head, drill a hole through the head and then run wire through the holes. After going through each hole, wrap the wire clockwise around each head and pull tight. Then go to the next head and repeat. I had to do that on one of my T's. Have had no further problems keeping them tight.
Haven't ever had trouble, but then use new screws in known good threads in the hogshead.
And place small washer over the slotted holes in the Bendix cover, then small correct-sized lock-washers under the Bendix cover screws.
How in H... do you get your fingers in there to string safety wire? It's a nightmare.
While you're doing that, I'll be 40 miles down the road.
I lost one of the original screws. I went down to the hardware store, found a metric stud that was 'close' stripped it into the inboard screw position (you know, that one that's almost impossible to start), glued the gasket to the Hog's head, started the metric nut and a 'star washer' on the stud, slid the slotted bendix cover on between the star washer and the gasket and installed the other 3 screws. Tightened everything up. Problem solved.
Anybody that is such a 'purist' they would climb in there to see if I have the 'proper' screw in the 'proper' position, fine knock yourself out. Frankly, I couldn't care less. Naturally, I found the missing screw not long after I was finished, now I have a spare.
Tried metric once, Like Dennis Halpin said works best. Also made some out of broken brass magneto screws. What a chore that was, Metric studs with nuts works better.
1/4-20 tap and a hand full of socket head cap screws. You can find them at any ACE. Dan
The original screw is #14-24 ASME.
I always thought the thread was a 1/4-24 and have purchased the screws from Chaffins.As a quick fix I have retapped the holes with a 1/4-28 and used that size screw.I use an extension that makes it easier to tap Also I put the 3
oclock screw in a few threads and then slip the cover under it. makes it a lot easier to install
Langs sells the correct screws. You can get the metric lockwashers to fit at a good hardware store. Don't mess up your hogshead.
"Don't mess up your hogshead."
Go ahead and destroy your engine when those cheesy screws come loose.
Hey, "Original Smith": do you really use a non-original part, or just recommend it for others?
Ever notice that it's always the screw that gets buggered, and rarely the nut? That's just the physics of it. A nut or threaded hole can be made of much softer material than the screw, and still not get damaged from abuse.
IOW, a metric screw may get a couple of bent threads on the end, while the hogshead remains pristine.
Time to find another excuse.
I would avoid any "quick fix" that would permanently alter or damage an original part, but that's just me. You are correct that the original bendix screw threads are an odd, hard to get size but they are available from the vendors and I recommend that you order a set of 4, instead of buggering up the threads of your hogshead as, hopefully, that hogshead will outlast you by many years and it will have a future owner that will wonder, what in the heck was done to the bendix screw holes, by who, and why?!
Anytime a screw goes through the block, hogshead, or pan and enters the interior of the engine, oil can get out through the threads by capillary action, therefore, I always clean, then coat the threads of such screws and bolts with "The Right Stuff", before inserting them in their holes and tightening them. Not only will it stop any leaks, but will act as a threadlock that will prevent the loosening of the fasteners
Examples of such bolts and screws are: The bendix screws, the starter screws, the transmission inspection cover screws, the oil pan bottom inspection cover bolts, the generator bolts, several of the timing gear cover screws and several others I know of, but who's precise location escape my memory right now. Jim Patrick
We make the right screws,we sell to all the dealers, Bob
Jim - That oil getting out by way of "capillary action" is Ford's idea of built-in rust prevention.
Ralph - You miss-spelled IOWA. (I think I miss-spelled miss-spelled).
IOW, In Other Words...
I mispoke: not a couple of threads on the screw would be buggered, just a slight amount on all the threads. Mispoke: politician word for lie.
I had original screws, and replaced them once already with vendor supplied original size. They still loosened up after just a short time. Maybe a previous owner buggered up the holes. The cover now has a leak free set of Metric screws with blue locktite for good measure. Time will tell. I'll report back after I run it for a few dozen hours.
go with the metric. they are trouble free and stay tight.