Some of you guys have made a pan jig. Any tips? I'm interested to know how thick the plate should be. Is 1 inch enough? If we get a piece burnt out of hot rolled plate will it have to be milled flat?
I appreciate any help!
Check the forum. There are a few threads that show shop made jigs using steel plate.
Our club has a home grown pan Jig. It is 1" steel plate with a lip. I'll send you some pics.
Or you can bring your pan down and use it...
What is a pan jig?
It's a fixture to make sure the engine oil pan is straight when rebuilding the engine. If someone has driven carelessly into the curb even once, the pan may have been bent, giving extra stress on the crankshaft - extra dangerous for 1925 T's with the more flexible four dip pan but lacking the extra reinforcing attachment screws to the engine on the hogshead
Check out this thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/168788.html?1288847416
Made mine out of 1.25" steel plate, had it cut to shape with high pressure water jet, didn't have to mill surface as it was better than most of the old pan jigs I have been around. Have about $400.00 in it total and very happy with the out come.
Thank you, never too late to learn something new. Especially about the old Fords.
Fordowner article on home built pan jig.
Here is a photo of my K R Wilson pan jig as found. I'm currently in the process of restoring this unit. I believe a straight pan is one of the most important steps in rebuilding an engine. There is a real need to remove as much stress as possible from that little 1.248" crank shaft that is probably ground even smaller in most cases. It also makes assembly so much easier when all of the holes line up properly.
I know that Mike Benders unit was reverse engineered using actual pan drawings from Ford archives and from measurements taken from a Wilson unit. If I were going to build one I would ask him for advise.
Thanks everyone for all the input.
Keith. We don't have a jig up here in the Vancouver area so a number of us want to get together and make one for all to use. Thanks for your offer of using yours. One of our problems is that we have 2 early, one piece pans to straighten. We plan on making the jig to do both the early and the later pans. Hopefully this can be done.
Water Jet is the way to go. Costs more, but does not warp the plate or leave ugly edges
I tried a Youtube search and found nothing relevant. Now that we all know what it is, how about some instruction on how to use it?
Fairly simple to use just need hammers, dollies and sometimes a little heat to get the pan to fit onto the locators on the jig. Every pan is a little different some of them require a lot more effort than others. When completed the pan should just slip on and off of the jig with all locators in place with no effort.
Fellows, there was a home made one here in Adelaide which was drilled for every bolt hole, rather than having locating pins. It was a simple job to get bends fore and aft out of the pan. If it was high in the centre, then washers were added at the front and rear, and bolts snugged up in the centre. If that didn't do the trick, more washers were added and the bolts snugged down again. The reverse was true for a bend downwards at the ends. A little heat took the stresses out.
Anthony bought an engineers cast iron surface plate for us to use as a jig. I have drilled the holes as needed to use this. The only thing we don't have is a way to true the pan ear holes front to rear.
For your interest.
Allan from down under.
Here are some pictures of my home made pan jig
Question Anthonie, how do you locate the spacing for the arm bolt holes.
It seems to me that you guys would want to add something to your homemade pan jigs to properly locate the pan's ears. I have encountered some ears which were severely tweaked, as I'm sure many of you have. Others were broken off and rewelded, so who knows how close they were to being correct? If they are not properly aligned and you bolt them onto the frame anyway, there is undue stress on the pan and/or the frame.
Also, I see the inspection plate on. Did you work on the pan with that on there?
These are more pictures of my shop built pan jig. I used a burn out from 1 1/4" sheet steel. I did pretty up the edges on the Bridgeport. The width is critical between the pan arm, other than that all else is nominal. I did use the crankcase blue print (available from the Benson Ford Center) for dimensions. If you look closely you can see a scribbed line from front to back on center and side to side between the pan arm placement. These lines cross dead center on the oil drain hole. The T shaped pieces are used to locate the holes in the pan support arms, the upright loop serves as a lifting point and the piece of flat steel(laying loose) is used as a fulcrum when straitening a bent pan. I don't know the weight of the jig but it is some where short of 300 pounds. The ball cap alignment guide was made from a transmission output shaft, part of which was milled away to allow it to be bolted flat.
The burn out stayed flat and did not need to be ground flat.
Herm ; # 1 ,I bent the arms so the oilpan arms line up in the chassis then there is no strain on the arms. # 2 ,You need to straight the pan as a unit and not in parts , and mount it as a unit.
I have always found that the inspection plate should be removed before trying to Align a pan, as a tightened cover holds the pan to rigid, and after Alignment, when taking off the inspection plate, you would have to tweak the arms again.
As far as the arms, if you are using the frame for a reference to align the two holes in the pan.
Two things can happen.
The arms will be fit to a in, or out width, of the frame. Also, if one arm say is straight, and the other bent in a hole width, which is very common, if the straight arm is bent out to compensate, then the motor would be moved over 3/8's of an inch, right, or left, off center of the drive train.
But if the motor and pan does not set in the middle, between the the pan arm bolt holes, then the ball cap will be left, or right on center, and could be strained, as the rear end would be pushing the drive shaft right, or left, and putting undo stress on the pan arms, that the motor should be floating between.
You can make one with a 26-27 engine block and hog's head. Bolt it down heat it up the pan with a rose bud, tap all of the curved surfaces while hot, tighten the bolts, heat it again and let it cool.
You would never take the bow up, " pan up side down" in the middle of the pan like that.
The biggest thing is while the hogs head might match the pan, the chances that the ball cap would match the alignment of the mains, is slim to none, If they were bent to begin with.
Anthonie, that is a very good jig you made to shift the ball cap area!
One very desirable aspect of a pan jig would be to be able to check for enough clearance between the front of the flywheel pocket and the mag field coil. Sometimes a pan gets a "punch in the stomach" from the wishbone when the front wheels smack into something, and it bends the pocket just enough so that, due to the slope of the pocket, when the pan is bolted to the block, it bears on the field coil enough to jam it into the flywheel. Been there, seen it!
AMEN to that observation and recommendation, R.V. !!!
Ken, I have seen first hand how Dan drives and all the curbs he hits, he's as bad as me and I know I have hit my share. For sure you need a pan jig. If I had one I would give it to you, maybe trade it for a ride in that fancy car of yours that runs on water. looking forward to touring more up north this year. See you then.
Thanks for all the suggestions. We've got some 1 1/4 plate coming in so we'll see how we make out.
Dan's been declared a danger on the road with his T (by me) so it's been off the road for a year. Actually the engine is still apart. Bad thing is he keeps borrowing my 15. I don't know if it can take the abuse much longer!