Would it be OK to use just one bushing (instead of 2) in the transmission brake drum shaft? The Ford service manual says after 1925 thy rebushed them with one bushing only.
My concern is getting the two bushings reamed true to each other. I wonder if this is why Ford also recommended switching to one bushing.
Bobster I wondered about that also when I first rebuilt a transmission but opted two go with two just to insure I would have as little play as possible but I was probably wrong. I will say so far after 10 yrs I have had no problems out of the transmission.
The Service Manual recognizes the diffculty of align boring the three bushings in the brake drum and driving plate to secure no run out on the driving plate shaft. I notice the suggestion to eliminate the rear brake drum bushing was made only with respect to the post 25 wide brake drums. I wonder if the fact that the driving plate is captured inside the brake drum plays a role in that since there is no possibility that the driving plate will move around without the second bushing. On the earlier set up, only a ridge on the brake drum (and of course the 6 screws) hold the plate in alignmnent. I think without that rear brake drum bushing you might get in trouble with a pre 25 transmission.
If you have a large enough lathe, the drum can be easily bored with both bushings in alignment.
Paul, thanks for the tip. Unfortunately, I don't own a lathe. I guess I could take it to a machine shop, but I was hoping to do it myself.
There was a special stepped reamer for align reaming both bushings at once. I use one and always index the driven plate to the brake drum so if they are ever parted they can be reassembled back to the proper relationship. I feel that Richard has the correct thinking on the driven plate being captured and the fact of the close proximity to the brake drum.
Steve, can you share where you got that reamer, and maybe a picture? It sounds like the ticket.
Two parts that you have to have on are the brake drum and the drive plate. The drive plate face in my T was seventeen thousands out of right angle with the shaft. The only way to correct that is with a lathe. Also the face of the brake drum is usually off. Again the lathe is used to correct. You can align the drive plate bushing with the main shaft ( very important) ALL of this is done on a lathe for about the cost of one reamer that will only fit the bushing. Reamers are a set size. the main shaft is often worn a thousands so the lathe can compensate for that. Its not fun to try to align the forth main with bushings reamed off center with shafts. Its impossible!!!!!!!!!
Good luck, Paul
Also, the reamer is probably more expensive than having it done in a lathe - once!
I tried to have mine bored on a lathe by the local auto machine shop. They usually do brakes and small jobs. I was told that he didn't have the tools to bore either bushing. I "made do" by removing bushings from an old "bad" drum and putting them in the good drum shaft. This got me within .002 of runnout on the drum shaft with a running clearance of .002. I'd love to own and learn to run a lathe. The old professionals of this trade are retiring here. I have a few transmissions to rebuild and may need to travel 180 miles one way to a "real" machine shop and instruct the gents there on how I want it done.
Done that a time or two myself!! My trusty 16 inch comes in handy now and then. Its funny how many parts LOOK good but when you stick a dial on them you quickly find out that they are worn, bent, cracked, or something you would just as soon have not known about.
Just one of the joys of driving a T. One little trip makes it all worth it though!!
Here's a shot of that reamer Bob. It was included in an original set made by Alvord. I also have a lathe and center my work.
Thanks for the info, Steve!
With the amount of wieght and so forth on that it looks to me like someone should make 1 long bushing to repair that.Looks like it would be easyer bored and would bette support the drum.