I am looking for a original top boot and also the brass flex tube and bulb for my horn. I don't want a repro. I was also wondering if anyone knows if my metal coil box is original on my car. It is body number 228134 and engine number244842 with a casting date of 3-16-13. This does not agree with the date of 4-8-13 in the McCalley book. I also have the bank book of the original owner that bought the car on 5-17-13 at Cole Motors in Alda Oh. This true 1 owner car appears to be all original. I will post pictures and the detailed documentation of the car I got last year soon. I posted earlier about a lost valve seat needing replaced. I found a guy here in Des Moines named Jon Gowan. I pulled the head, he popped in a new valve seat, in 1 hour I had it back together. It runs beautiful now. Thanks to all that answered my questions on this.
Some clarification for you.
The casting date on the block is the date the block was cast.
The serial number was stamped when the engine was completed.
The casting date is always earlier than the serial number date (unless the original block was replaced with a later block and stamped with the number from the original block).
Getting close to the end of '13 style tourings if it's a touring. I have 312,XXX made on July 17, 1913, and it is a "'14 style" touring car.
Ron Patterson can probably establish the dates for the flat top metal coil box. Seems like it is about January or February of 1913.
Please post some pictures. Always fun to look at original cars.
Ken in Texas
There were two different top boots used in 1913. Both of them used leather hold down straps. I doubt if your car had a metal coilbox, although it may have. It is very common to find early T's with metal coilboxes, because the newer style Ford coils were everywhere, and people probably didn't want to mess with those early coils. Try placing an ad in the classifieds for your horn tube.
The horn flex tubes come up on ebay often. The bulb would be almost 100 years old and in all likely hood not usable. If you have a Rubes horn, Lang's carries a reproduction bulb. Not cheep.
RE: coil boxes
When the design of coils was standardized/perfected and Ford Motor Company switched over to metal coilboxes, I believe they actively encouraged dealers to switch out the older wood boxes with metal boxes. I know that I have read some type of correspondence in this regard (maybe in a copy of Ford Times?).
Over sixty years ago, my dad visited southern Minnesota Ford dealerships searching for and purchasing NOS Model T Ford parts. He told me that the dealership in Blue Earth had a large inventory of used wood coilboxes that they had kept as a result of replacing them with metal boxes on customers' cars.
Although Lang's and Snyder's don't list them, the Nonpareil bulb is available also at the same price.
Disclaimer – I do not have a 1912-1913 to take a look at so this is all a guess/theory until someone corrects it or confirms it should work:
If your dash has not been restored or replaced, I would GUESS you should be able to loosen the bolts holding your metal coil box onto the dash and look behind it. If the metal coil box was original to the dash you should not see the indentations on the dash from the mounting brackets for the Heinze or Kingston wooden coil box. See: http://www.modeltford.com/item/5000MBH.aspx which says it is the original style for the 1911-1913 Heinze and Kingston wooden coil boxes. Remember – that is a GUESS.
Note according to the MTFCI Judging Guidelines [available from the Vendors as well as from the MTFCI at http://modelt.org/discus/messages/2/33968.html ] they state, “Ford designed steel coil box with flat top appeared around May, 1913. While your car has an engine serial number of 244xxx which is listed in Bruce McCalley’s (RIP) page 507 for a Apr 8, 1913 – that has at least two different meanings. First, it could have been the date the engine was assembled “IF” it was assembled in the Highland Park Engine assembly area. It then could have been installed in a car at Highland Park shortly afterwards or by 1913, I believe more and more of the branch plants were also assembling cars from the parts shipped to them from Highland Park. In which case the engine could have been placed in a car several days or weeks later. Additionally some Branch Assembly plants assembled their own engine and transmissions. For those engines assembled at the Branch, the Highland Park sent them a “block of engine numbers” that the Branch Plant stamped on the completed engines. But those numbers were pulled from the daily numbers. So “IF” your engine was assembled at a branch plant – it could have been days or weeks after the similar range of numbers were stamped at the Highland Park Plant. And then it would have been placed in a chassis. For 1913 – I do not know which branch plants were doing assembly of the cars or engines. While they are listed in the 1913 Ford Literature, I do not know which did or which may not have actually assembled cars in 1913. [For 1926 it is easy to tell as the “Ford Industries” pamphlet marked the branches with an “A” if they assembled cars. ]
Good news – if you have the date the car was sold/purchased, in general the completed cars were not stored – but sold as quick as they could get them delivered. [Some slow moving body styles were an exception to that for example at: http://mtfca.com/encyclo/doc12.htm
JUN 14, 1912 Acc. 509, Letter, Ford Archives
Production sold out (except for 1,000 Delivery Wagons) until September 1. No orders accepted except for Delivery Wagons.
As well as the 1915 closed cars were slow movers.
Welcome to the forum and we look forward to seeing additional photos of your T.
Hap l9l5 cut off
My touring block is 3 days after yours 19-3-13, 236,0xx body # 223,3xx Wilson body # W96,9xx.
I have two '13s, and neither one of them had a wood coilbox when I bought them. They both now have original KW boxes on them, and I like them a lot, and rarely have problems with the coils.
Here's a video of the car:
Appears to have a typical 1950s cosmetic restoration - car has been repainted, replacement canvas top, replacement interior door panels. Body has probably never been off the frame.
Nice to have a complete car with a true history/provenance.
My 13 touring is a June of 13 car. SN 299,xxx. While the outer sheet metal received a paint job many years ago, the chassis and driveline are untouched and original. Even the underside of the hood has the original ford paint still there and in good shape. My car has the two-piece drive shaft, cast iron intake (Same casting as the aluminum one) Holley 2 screw carb, later rear cross member, etc. The car had a later 1918 vintage metal coil box in it when I bought it. Clearly the car had lost it's original coil box along the way and I suspect the original owner dumped the wood box when standard ford coils became available. So, I put a KW style wood coil box in it using a repro box that accepts standard ford coils. I got the switch by scrapping a KW Master Vibrator unit. I've seen pictures of original cars made within two weeks of mine that still have their original wood KW coil boxes intact. That was close enough for me.
The camshaft in your car allows the timer roller to be installed either properly or 180 degrees off. When this happens reversing the order of the spark plug wires on the dash gives the proper firing order. Next time you have the timer off you can reverse it.
I agree with Eric, the car has obviously been repainted. Also the firewall is not original, and the front floor mat is a reproduction. Really nice car, I would not do anything other than drive it and enjoy it.
Nice car. What brand is the windshield? Everything is pretty correct. I'd try to find an original horn tube. The repros aren't quite good enough. I like the KW wood coilboxes, because you can get points easy for them, and as mentioned before, KW master vibrators are plentiful if you need a good switch. Congratulations!
Great YouTube clip. Wish it was wide screen. 13 would be my ideal year. Great car, now enjoy it with your enthusiastic son.