Please help I'm only 17 yrs old, my transmission on my 1926 model t some times my second gear slipping or doesn't work at all some times. I have fixed it twice by opening the hogs head and tightening the three flat screws that turn inside the trany when I fix it, it only last a while until I can't engage second gear. Please help and yes there are coter pins holding those screws in place
Tom Lawthers from Palmdale area used to be on this Forum, and may be able to help. I'll send him an email.
Would u know what it is mabe
Be sure nothing obstructs the handle from going all the way forward.
Could it be that the spring is weak and adjusting the finger screws is not going to completely compensate and the clutch is therefore slipping.
Is the J-bolt and yoke adjusted properly ??? Have you checked it ?? If you have not please see the following link to a prior post on this forum:
There are several things it could be. A bad or weak spring is one of them.
What worries me, is that it sounds as if the problem is getting worse quickly. Since you have cotter pins in place (?), it won't be because the screws are backing out.
What is the car like? Pictures would help, besides we like pictures. Is it an old barn find? Or an older restoration? Or a beater that has been tinkered with a lot? Or a bunch of parts that have been stuck together? Or maybe a really nice car? Which suspects for this type of problem is more likely, changes with the general condition of the car.
The type and condition of the clutch plates is probably a factor, and may be the main problem.
There should be quite a few model T folks around Palmdale. I would recommend contacting any of the clubs near you. See if you can get to know some of the members that could help you to work the bugs out of your car.
By the way, WELCOME TO THE AFFLICTION!
Drive carefully, and enjoy!
You said after making an adjustment you put cotter pins back in but, are you sure they are actually passing through the screw slot? Sometimes the clutch plates will get worn enough so that when the screws are run in far enough to compensate for the wear the screws are in too far for the cotter pin to engage the screw slot. Another thing to check is leave the floor boards in the car and throw the brake lever fully forward. Now get under the car and make sure the bolt in the clutch release lever clears the cam on the brake lever shaft. The clutch spring could also be weak. More information about the car and pictures would help.
Steven, I had a similar problem and it was my pedal hitting my floorboard not allowing it to come all the way up into high gear. I adjusted my floorboard problem solved.
Steven, also, with the brake lever fully forward there should be a small amount of back and forth movement in the clutch pedal. If the pedal linkage is adjusted too long it will not allow the clutch spring to apply its full pressure on the fingers and cause the clutch to slip.
Please let us know what you find.
Sounds like a failed aftermarket clutch. If it was a factory Ford clutch with steel disks the situation you describe would be extremely unlikely.
Read some of these threads to see if this is the problem:
Steven if your post was OT or political it would have had a lot more interest here sorry.
Sounds like the clutch plates, having grooved the shoes, are hanging up in these grooves and keeping the clutch in an uneasy neutral. If the grooves are bad enough, the plates have also cut into the brake drum lugs, making it worse.
A few things to consider. One is the length of the brake rods. If they are too long, it will pull back on the brake handle when you shift from low to high. They should be adjusted with the brake lever all the way forward and the clevis pin should go in easily without having to force the rod back to get the pin in. After making this adjustment take the car to a flat spot and pull on the brake to be sure one wheel does not slide before the other. If it does slide tighten the other one half turn at a time until you get them to slide evenly.
Next thing to check is that the clutch disengages with the brake lever about half way back or approximately straight up, and the car should roll when you push it without turning the engine. Then when you pull the brake all the way back it locks the brake.
After you are sure the parking brake rods are properly adjusted, the next thing to do is whenever you go from low to high, as you go through neutral push up on the throttle and then as you let the pedal all the way into high you will feel it catch. At the point it catches, begin to pull the throttle down to increase speed in high. Some drivers leave the throttle in the same place when shifting from low to high and that causes the clutch to slip, because when in high the engine goes slower than it does in low, it should be slowed down at the time of shifting so the engine and driveshaft are going the same speed.
I am going to attach a diagram for adjusting for a free neutral. This adjustment will also allow the clutch to completely engage when you go into high.
Another possible problem which it is impossible to know unless the previous owner can tell you is whether the car has an aftermarket clutch such as a Watts clutch or Jackrabbit clutch. Those aftermarket clutches will wear out rapidly if allowed to slip. In that case the only remedy would be to pull the engine and transmission and replace the clutch. This would be the last thing to do if all the others don't work.
Does the clutch begin to slip, say when going uphill or such, AFTER it has been engaged? Or is it just slipping when you shift and never engaging in the first place? If it is the latter, are you closing the throttle when shifting? Lots of times when the clutch spring is weak, it will be strong enough to KEEP the clutch engaged ONCE ENGAGED, but will slip if the engine speed and transmission speed are not matched when shifting. If this seems to be the case, try this. Accelerate in Low like normal. When you shift, instead of letting the pedal all the way up into High, bring the left pedal into the Neutral position while simultaneously closing the throttle. Listen to the engine and let the RPM come down to idle speed or close to it. THEN let the pedal the rest of the way out. THEN give it some gas.