Crankcase Front Bearing

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Crankcase Front Bearing
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David R Barker on Sunday, January 06, 2013 - 06:55 pm:

Noted some erosion on the bottom of the front bearing that mounts to the frame. Looking for a replacement, but not seeing what I'm looking for on any of the vendor websites. Part #T320B. Any ideas? Thanks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andy Loso St Joseph, MN on Sunday, January 06, 2013 - 08:26 pm:

David,

I believe I have exactly what you need.

Email me at aloso@q.com so I can send you a picture or two.

Andy


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Sunday, January 06, 2013 - 09:21 pm:

David, those are easy to find. You shouldn't have any difficulty.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kep NZ on Sunday, January 06, 2013 - 09:42 pm:

i made one from a piece of flat steel and some pipe cut in two. Cut a V notch in some flat bar maybe 20mmX1-2mm and file it to the shape of the pipe that wraps around the oil pan nose. Weld this to the pieces of pipe to support the pipe and weld a piece of bar on top with holes in it for bolts. Put another piece of bar on the top of the frame with clamps holding it to the spring and test fit the oil pan in place with one of the pipe cradle things under the nose of the pan. Tack weld the pipe thing to the flat heavy bar and release the clamps and lift the oil pan just enough to remove the pipe cradle thing. You can now weld bolts or nuts to the bottom piece with the bar that gets clamped and finish the welds that were tacked and paint them black or another desired colour before installing. All done.

Or you could mend that one somehow, it looks early and valuable.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 06:26 am:

David, I think some of those mounts were like that from new. If the forging hits the mill and is jigged at less than the optimum setting, that could easily result in the machining being 'off' like that.


The real test is whether the snout on the pan is tight in that mounting. Even if a little loose, it is a simple job to wrap a bit of shim around the inside of the mounting and snug it up again.

Once we had a fellow with a newly restored T on an annual 2 day tour and he was mystified by a clunk and rattle whenever he throttled off. He sent a mate and I off for a drive to see what we thought it might be. I can't remember which one of us diagnosed a loose front pan mount. but we hammered a penny into the mounting, snugged it up tight, and took the car back to him, saying we couldn't find the noise. Neither could he when he drove it. We never did let on what we did, but I'm sure he would have found out eventually.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David R Barker on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 08:56 am:

Thanks, all, for the info. Don't have the pan with me now to test fit, but I'll keep in mind the shim wrap if needed. Though I might check to see if the gaps can be back-filled with weld, then grind off the excess.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 02:41 pm:

I also vote for the "from factory" and "shim wrap". I have seen to many like that which on close inspection appear to be machined, and not worn.
Also laughing about what Allen R B and friend did.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew David Maiers on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 02:45 pm:

even if it wasnt chipped from the factory it would be paper thin, not structural, id use it.


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