The other splash shields

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: The other splash shields
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Santilla on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 08:53 am:

Putting this 1926 roadster back together has been a labor of love but there have been time when I have considered throwing a match at it. I was told yesterday that I should have put the splash shields between the running boards and the body on before putting the body back on the chassis. Holding the splash shields up to the side of the car I don't see where they fasten on the upper edge.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 09:41 am:

When I did my 26 Tudor the body is first (actually I didn't remove it, everything there was good), then set the running boards. Next position the splash shields but don't fasten. Install the rear fenders and aline the splash shields to them. The upper part of the splash shields are held by wood screws into the body wood.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 09:59 am:

When I restored my 24 Coupe I installed (sat the body in position WITHOUT the body to frame bolts installed).
I then used a jack to raise up one side and installed the running board shield and dropped in the body to frame bolts just to hold the body and shields in place.
The other side I did the same way.
Remember it doesent take much to jack up the body. Its just enough to provide a 1/4 inch or so.
I then bolted the body and shields down.
Next to be installed are the running boards.
The fenders go on last.
Thats the way I did it.
Others may vary in the way they might do it.

I used long center punches to help alighn the holes in the fenders and running board shields.
They really came in handy to draw up everything together and to perfectly alighn the body parts.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 10:07 am:

If you don't happen to have long center punches to align the holes, good-sized Phillips screwdrivers will work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 10:09 am:

`Bob

That is how they did it on the assembly line with the body drop, the running boards, aprons, and front sheet metal was on the car.



But that isn't the only way



Now with the body in place, if you have fastened down tight the running boards, loosen them up so you have wiggle room.

Then slide the running board splash aprons under the edge of the body, and tuck the gutter edge of the apron into the lip of the running board, it is easier to place the splash aprons and then place the running boards back down.

Then to fasten the splash aprons, assuming you correctly installed the body to frame wood blocks, use washers and wood screws thru the apron metal into the wood blocks. do this only after you have mounted the front and rear fenders, aligned everything, including the hood clasp strips, etc...so all the sheet metal is bolted up fast...then anchoring of the splash aprons is one of the last steps :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 11:41 am:

The splash shields on a 26 can be installed after the body is on. There are screws between the splash shield and the wood body supports. (I left those screws out.) The screws would prevent some rattles or vibrations, but are not necessary to hold the shields in place. Next after the shields go the running boards and then the fenders. Leave the bolts loose on the running boards and fenders until you get everything aligned, then tighten them. Next go the front splash apron below the radiator, then the hood sills and lastly the radiator.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 02:14 pm:

Steve I bought a set of punches and chisels in a roll up pouch at Harbour Freight Tools and the 3-4 punches are 6-10 inches long.
I paid around 12 bucks for them and surprisingly they are made from some good steel.
Pretty good for China stuff.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Monday, January 07, 2013 - 04:29 pm:

I have never worked on '26/'27 Ts much. They are different than 1925 and earlier.
Great photos, Dan T!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


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