I'm finishing up the assembly of my engine after being redone and I'm not sure on a few things.
*On the ball cap/4th main does the oil hole
get installed facing up or down on.
*How much grease goes into the U-joint ? Does this get packed with grease or just a bit?
I know to stay away from the following questions after watching the forum for the last 3 months:
*Kevlar, cotton or wood
*What type of oil
*Water or Anti-freeze
*Seat Belts?
*6 or 12 v
Thanks for all of the help I received on this forum and to the friends that I have met on this project.

PACK the u-joint. use red grease just to be safe. like use an entire tub.

"how do you know when the u-joint has enough grease?"

"when grease comes out the rear hubs"

Face up on the 4th main.

put enough grease into the ball to hold the U-joint stub from flopping around during assembly into the rear of the engine.

Fourth main oil hole goes on the top so oil can puddle there to keep it oiled. If abrasive debris gets stuck in there, you are on your own.
U-joint should be nearly packed with grease. I like heavy duty wheel bearing grease. Never had a problem with it. It also helps to keep the engine oil leak from diluting the rear end grease.
I have used all three types of band linings. Like them all. Although I seem to be one of the few living people that had bad results from wood bands, but that was a lot of years ago. I often have a mix of linings in one car. The one major caution I give, is that with Kevlar, forget that the linings are indestructible. Pretend they are cotton and will unravel any minute if you use them much. Adjust them loose, do not let them slip on the drums. The Kevlar is tougher than the thin cast iron drum and will break the drum if used improperly. For reference, I usually get thousands of miles out of cotton linings. Never needed to replace a Kevlar. Can't say that about wood (but not Guinn's fault).
Slippery and liquid. Do not run too low.
Do not run out.
Almost never in a speedster, Rarely in a runabout or touring. I wouldn't in an enclosed car, like my coupe, but would not tell someone else not to. I just prefer my cars to be close to era correct and am willing to chance it with my life.
There are advantages to both. Again, I prefer my cars be close to era correct wherever reasonable.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2

If you run a transmission screen, it's prudent to put the 4th main hole on the side rather than on top.

Ken, is that so the oil can drain back out of the hole and be filtered by the screen? Just curious; I'm a newbie. Thanks.

With the hole on top and a transmission screen installed, you get a lot more oil at the 4th main, which can work it's way through the 4th (especially if it has a bit of wear) and into the u-joint housing, and then down the torque tube, into the rear axle.
With the oil hole on the side you still get enough oil to lubricate the 4th.
Even without a transmission screen, and the oil hole on top, if there is much clearance in the 4th the oil migrates to the rear axle.

Got it, thanks. Looking to get a new ball cap anyway, and will add the screen, so when I install, I'll be sure to mount the cap with the oil hole on the side.

Is there a way to tell what direction the hole is in the 4th main? Reason being I picked up a 26 Fordor last august. Thought it would be fun. When I removed the motor, there wasn't a 4th main in it. So when replacing the motor, it did not get one. Now I see by the forum that it should have one. I picked up a good one and pulled the rear end and installed it. In the process I see someone had used a pliers on the sleeve. So I spent a lot of time with fine file to clean up the sleeve the main rides on. I think I put the hole to the top. Now I see I need to pump the u joint full of grease. This forum is a wealth of information. One of these days I will post a pic of my new love, and I don't mean grandma. I hope she doesn't see this. Oh by the way I'm from Trosky Minnesota.