After more than a year apart the new motor is finally nearing completion. We have a weather window this coming weekend and I hope to complete it Saturday and install it Sunday with a little help from my friends. Dave at Chaffin is sending me new wood & hardware to mount the motor into the frame rails. The firewall is already loosened and blocked up as shown in this picture of my buddy Bill who helped put this thing together of the holiday week:
We have the correct hardware to replace the temporary items on the fourth main:
The starter and generator will be added before installation but I'll hold off on the outside oil line until after the engine is safely installed. We have one of the yellow lifting straps to use with the cherry picker the same as when the motor came out. I'm intending to clean the U-joint with brake cleaner and pack it with grease. Getting this motor out was a major PIA because it didn't want to slide out easily with the firewall in place and the radius rod constantly finding a way to get loose. We have the firewall blocked up and the radius rod blocked down this time!
Any ideas to make this job go smoothly?
We assembled the pan & hogshead outside and got caught in a thunder shower in SoCal! Who ever heard of that? Here is a pic of myself & Bill wet & chilled but victorious!
Put the starting crank on first. It makes a great handle to horse the engine around as you're sliding it in.
Some find it easier to manipulate the engine if you leave the starter off until the engine is in. Just don't drop anything in the open holes!
is your hogshead painted or just bare? if its painted please share what you used it looks very nice!
jockying a t engine in is indeed an experience, but a good one! good luck.
Just a couple of hints that may help..
The one-man install (me) in my '23 didn't need firewall lifting or body lift, so from your set-up looks like a wood support on the frame under the front of the body? That may get in the way when you tilt the engine to have the pedals clear the firewall/body.
A little grease on the frame rails helps to slide the engine pan arms along the frame as you slip it back.
A good tilt to the engine will get the pedals under where they need to be.
A bit of levering to get the engine to slip back.
I like to use several eyes to re-locate the angle as you go, by adjusting to this spot, the engine was easy to hang level with the frame.
Getting closer !
Already to fit the U- joint
Use of that red strap with a slip buckle made it easier one-man job to elevate the u-joint sq shaft to align and insert.
Thanks for the good tips! I'll go ahead and install the crank as we need all the leverage we can get.
Larry Blair at the Tin Shed machined the hogshead for pedal shaft seals and he did the outside paint. I had decided to use a semigloss black for this project thinking it most likely that Henry HAD painted the motor in 1923. Larry thought it more likely that he hadn't and used a paint that mimics freshly cast iron. I believe he said it was Cast Blast. Seeing paint of any or all of the motor & transmission is controversial, I decided to leave Larry's paint as it is. It looks pretty nice and provides a nice contrast with the rest of the powerplant.
What ever Larry used, it is rugged paint. It survived no less than two sessions with us tyro mechanics trying to install it with levers screwdrivers, rubber mallets and plenty of Pop's old "Marine Corp." words. Here is another view of the hogshead:
I love the idea of greasing the rails and will be doing that for sure! The red strap is used to elevate the propeller shaft to get it unto alingnment? That is an area I have more than a little concern about. I understand the grease holds the U-joint in position?
The pictures were very helpful, thank you!
Aligning the u-joint end with the square hole can be a challenge. Jack up one of the rear wheels so that a helper can turn it slowly to get the square shaft lined up with the square hole.
Not sure what grease you're using but the stuff I use has never been helpful enough to hold the u-joint up for me. Resist the urge to reach in there with your fingers! Use some dental floss, or some other harmless string, to reach under & lift the joint end high enough to engage it.
Also, if the engine suddenly hangs up and doesn't want to slide back, look under the car to see if it snagged the wishbone.
Aaaand.... don't put a gasket between the ball joint collar and the fourth main. DO put one between the 4th main and the hog's head.
Thanks Jerry, more very good advise! Without your saying so, I would have installed a gasket in back of the ballcap. How do you seal it? Just use lots of gasket goop?
I have some old twine around someplace so I'll get that ready for the big day along with the floor jack to lift a rear wheel.
For the U-joint member, a tool can be bought that is a repro of helpful tool wrench that fits the sq. shaft so you can turn it to align with the socket in the tail shaft.
Finally bought one of the wenches, and its nice, prior to that the handy stiff polypropylene putty knife did the job! Just notch the plastic putty knife blade for the sq. shaft, its thin, and slips in and does allow adj of the shaft. Oh...be sure the rear axle can turn, and wheels off the concrete!
And no gasket is needed outboard on the ball cap, the heavy grease you place in the cap housing won't escape. And pack the daylights out of the ball cap housing....pack it full, that thick grease does help to support the floppy U-joint shaft.
And Henry placed the largest grease cup there....always keep that ball cap full of grease, if grease isn't rolling out after a week's tour, you better add more!
I have one rear wheel jacked up so I can turn it to align the u-joint to the rear of the trans. I block the other rear wheel to keep the car from moving. Also I use a 7/8 open end wrench to help align the u-joint.
Never ever put your fingers in to align the u-joint as you could loose them very easily if the engine slips.
I have put engines in by my self using these tips.
If you don't have the special u-joint alignment tool or even a open end wrench, don't worry a stiff piece of wire will do the trick. Even a wire coat hanger will work.
Trans. inspection cover looks wrong, you want the center ridge into the trans so it will drip oil on the bands.
If the grease dosn't hold the U-joint in place I'm temped to want to put in just a small amount of grease in the u-joint for the installation and fill the ball from the top after the fact with a grease gun. Will this work OK? I'm looking for the easiest and least messy route I can find.
I also noticed in those install pictures that Dan posted that he also backed off the clutch adjusting bolt as then engine got closer to the cam.
Best to fill the ball joint, use a tongue depressor or some flat blade and really butter it tight, the U-joint sq shaft will stand up, and you will be happy with install by not having that shaft flop around.
A grease gun thru a fitting on the grease cap hole will just puddle a little worm of grease, you will go thru many tubes and won't have a well packed u-joint.
Install the starter before installing the engine in the car.
The toughest part is lining the u joint and the crank. Be sure you have your gaskets for the bell housing. Takes 2 to assure no leaks. Good luck..
I use this wrench to line up the universal joint. It came with a Craftsman radial arm saw. It makes the job very easy. Could be bent, but it works well just the way it is.
Thanks for the help guys, barring the unforeseen, we hope to have the lump in Sunday and will start assembling the little stuff. There is still plenty to do, but the hard work and big expense will be done!
I'll post some pics next week . . .
Hey Paul, looks great...I have looked at all the pictures a few times as I am nearly at that point too. George had a note about the inspection cover, and mine is the opposite way as yours, dented [ not the right term] in from the outside, It makes sense about the oil dripping on the bands that way, but I'll tell ya, I see them both ways in different pics.. someone out there will know... Good Luck, engine sure looks nice! Jim Derocher... AuGres, Michigan
All the factory pictures and service bulletins show the later cover with the depressed pattern to be placed so that the depression is down, makes sense as oil slung up from the trans, would hit the inverted peaks and rain off.
1924 Ford Service
Improved Car, 1926 Service Bulletin
Factory engine conveyor to assembly line
Do not put a gasket between the bell cap and the retainer cover. But be sure to put one between the bell cap and the transmission. If oil is going to drip, it will drip anyway whether or not you put the second gasket in, but a second gasket will leave the u joint loose so it can move in and out and will actually leak more oil with the gasket than without. It could also make a noise when it moves in and out.
Thanks Norman, your words of wisdom came a little too late for me. In this thread, someone mentioned using no gasket, someone else said to use two. We looked the assembly over and could see no mechanical reason to do either - so we installed one. Now having read your explanation, it makes sense. The "Right Stuff" gasket sealer could have done its work quite well without the gasket had we only thought that far ahead.
Now that the gasket is in, I'm going to leave it in - for now. We'll get it on the road and see what problems we have. If needed we can loosen the ballcap fixings and scrape the gasket off. Messy but its all in fun anyway, right?
BTW, we got the "lump" installed - mostly anyway. I'll write a separate post about that ordeal once I recover a bit more . . .
Another potential 'hassle' is installing the 2 pan arm bolts, through the frame holes. (especially tough with the starter installed). Just did mine today-finally used a flex magnet to hold the bolt, threads-up and pushed it through enough to get the nut on, topside. The side bolts not too bad....good luck! paul