Starter solinoid problem

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Starter solinoid problem
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By cal clements, athens, georgia on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 03:54 pm:

I have a 1926 model t truck with a starter. When I press the switch, I'm getting a clicking sound which comes from the solinoid. Not starting. Please advise.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 04:09 pm:

Model Ts don't have solenoids so a picture of your setup might help. Did you check to see if the battery is charged?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John T. Tannehill on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 04:11 pm:

Low voltage if the solenoid is good, could be a bad ground or bad positive connection or a bad battery. Is it a 6 volt or 12 volt solenoid? Is the battery the right voltage for the solenoid?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By cal clements, athens, georgia on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 04:19 pm:

Thanks for your quick replies. It is a 6v system, which was working until just today. I'll check the battery to see if it has lost all of its charge.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By cal clements, athens, georgia on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 04:24 pm:

The battery is OK.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Claverie on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 04:35 pm:

99% chance it's a loose or corroded connection, and 80% of that will be in the "ground" connection between the battery and the frame.

What happens is, the connection is good enough to pass enough current to activate the solenoid, but as soon as the solenoid closes and the starter's load hits, the connection fails and the solenoid falls open. This will continue until the connection fails completely.

Do not run the engine (by hand cranking) with this condition. The generator needs the battery's load on it at all times, and if any connection in the system fails, the generator fries itself in no time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 04:37 pm:

If you have a solenoid someone added it (not a bad idea). If indeed there is a solenoid, jump across the two major leads and see if the starter works (you'll have to hold the starter button down at the same time). Or take a hot lead directly to the starter (there'll be a bunch of arcing).


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By cal clements, athens, georgia on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 04:41 pm:

That makes a lot of sense. I'll investigate the connections. Thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 04:44 pm:

That idea is just for trouble shooting to see if the starter works or to see of the starter switch or solenoid is bad. It's not a bad idea to run a grounding strap between the frame and engine


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 04:51 pm:

Cal if it's a Ford type solenoid it could be a 3 or a 4 terminal type. Which do you have? 4 terminal is 2 large & 2 small. 3 terminal is 2 large and 1 small. Large = battery. small = wire. The 4 is usually activated by grounding one small terminal (the other is powered). The 3 is activated by power to the small terminal.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 05:05 pm:

I had a similar situation with my 26 Roadster. Ever since I got the car, the starter turned very slowly, and I thought the engine was just tight. It finally got so bad it would just go "click". I took off the bendix and it still did the same thing without turning anything. Then I tried a jumper direct from the battery to the starter, and just so I could prove it wasn't a bad ground, I also jumped the ground from battery to starter.

I ordered a rebuilt starter and installed it. It works better than ever before. I have had this car for over 20 years, and the starter works best now than it ever did.

So maybe your problem is the starter itself.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Saturday, January 12, 2013 - 10:24 pm:

The problem most people have with old cars, is bad wiring. If you have good wiring, preferably new, your problems should be few. The next big problem is the starter switch. If you can get it apart, clean up the contacts, and you should be ok. As Ken said, T's don't have solenoids.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Aaron Griffey, Hayward Ca. on Sunday, January 13, 2013 - 02:05 pm:

Speaking of adding a solenoid, I have them on 3 of my cars, all activated by the original floor starter switch.
Even a poor original starter switch will activate a modern solenoid. Actually they are not solenoids, they are relays, but we all know they were called solenoids in the '37 and later Fords.
Speecheck doesn't like solenoids but is OK with solenoid.?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Sunday, January 13, 2013 - 08:59 pm:

Measure the battery while holding the solenoid switch engaged to see what the voltage is then. If it is not at least 5 volts, you need a new battery.


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