the tumbler was broke so i bough another one and it wouldn't fit, so i tried to put the key tabs out of the new one. could any one show me with a picture how to fix this.
you will probably have to remove material from the new one to get it to fit. ive heard some of these tumblers are better than others.
also you can play around with the little keys, and make your original key work.
You are probably going to have to drill out the two rivets to get everything apart. Not all the tumblers are alike, and I don't know if they will interchange either. You should probably call Ben Martin. He knows more about switches than Henry Ford.
are you talking about replaceing the tumbler or the whole switch?
if replacing the tumbler, are you wondering how to take it all apart?
I dont think you will have to drill the rivets, if im remembering everything properly, you just have to bend the tabs back i think.
Mine wouldnt switch from BATT to MAG without sticking and stalling the motor. The guts were worn out from 75 years of multiple keys hanging on the assembly.
I took mine apart and inverted all the guts. The only difference was a round keyway in the ignition contactor that was for the key tumbler. Youll need to bend the light switch handle tabs and remove it and the two rivets for the drum assembly. I redid mine with brass split band rivets. Works flawlessly. Hope the judges dont notice the keys' keyway on the wrong side of the tumbler! DONT hang a bunch of stuff on the key ring! troop
MARK every piece of the sub assemblies for orientation. Notice the red magic marker spot on the top and the tumblers' round keyway. The fiber rotator/contactor ring will need to be hand filed with a round file to fit together.
i had to drill it apart. the new tumbler was to big to go in so i used the tabs from the new tumbler and put them in the old tumbler . what i can,t figure out is when you pull the key out the tumbler keys fall out i don,t know what keeps them in there. i am new to this i don,t know how to take a picture and post it. sorry
My 26-27 switch has the plate with two rivets holding the 2" drum onto it. Theres a cylinder on that drum that holds the tumbler assembly installed from the front. The headlight switch arm goes on next and holds the tumbler cylinder into the assembly. Theres two tabs on the arm that get bent over to hold it together. The contactor rings go in from the back with either a 3 pin "bayonet" style or a four prong bendable ear type. troop
The key "pins" should be installed from the outside of the tumbler with steps on them to prevent them from dropping out. I seem to recall 2 upper and 2 lower pins on mine. When the tumbler is installed into the cylinder, that retains them from falling out inside the switch.
i give up and ordered a new one, i hope it works o k. its kind of scary from what i have been reading. i will try to fix the old one and use it for a spare. this is a car that i have had in the garage for 30yrs i got from my father when he passed away. since i retired i decided to finally to start on it.
There are two different types of tumblers which I have seen. One type has the tumblers "fixed" into the lock cylinder - they are not removable. The second type the tumblers slide into one edge of the lock cylinder. On this type, the lock cylinder slides into a cylinder on the switch plate as described by ex_trooper. That cylinder is what keeps the tumblers in. From what I remember, the other style did not have that cylinder - or it was a different design. If you put the cylinder with the removable tumblers in the housing made for the other style, when you pull the key out the tumblers fall out of the switch. I'll see if I can find the lock cylinders and take a photo of them.
thanks david that makes sense on the tumbler, the other thing is i might have some parts missing on the back because i don,t see how when you turn the key it changes anything in back. i guess i will wait till i get my new one and see how it works .