Having read that removing the engine from my 1915 roadster would require raising the body off the frame, my first job today was making this body lifter.
It hooks under the firewall and makes the lifting easy.
With the body raised a couple inches off the frame, a pair of 2x4 blocks over the brackets will keep it there.
With the body out of the way it was easy to slide the engine out.
The next chore will be changing my engine stand to support the center of gravity when the engine has the transmission on it.
Hey Steve... looking at the factory install pics, they were using ice tongs between #3 & 4 cylinders. Keep that water inlet position and weld an extension plate onto that with the pipe at 3&4. Of course that position does a good overnite oil drain for you. (Smile for the birdy!) troop
Leave it to Steve Jelf to find a better way to do something. One thing I like about Steve's ideas is that they are well thought out, save strain on things like the back, and tend to be very safety conscience. Safety is one of the most important considerations.
Thank you for taking the time to share things like this with us. I am sure many people will benefit from your wisdom.
Don't tear all the Ts apart! Keep a couple running to tour with! The '15 is one of my favorites. Your Fordor sedan is plenty special also. Kanab is just seven months away.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I always love your multimedia approach to your tinkering... pictures and the videos you post. Keep it up!
OK, here's this morning's change. Having the pivot between three and four makes rotation a lot easier. Someday I'll figure out a way to change the pivot (with and without transmission) while the engine is on the stand. But for now this will do.
Wow Steve that's a great idea but you didn't have to take the motor out just to show us how your body lifter works.
Looks like you have the engine on two different engine stands. Looks like the second one is better suited when the transmission is attached. Is that the best center of gravity on the engine to get it balanced on an engine stand? between the 3rd and 4th cylinder? I need to make me one.
BTW who is your photographer?
Without going into an overbuilt giant electrically driven diesel stand, You oughta consider rigging up a worm gear drive to position the motor. I built one for a 426 Hemi i was building and it made rolling positions effortless... troop
It's the same stand. I changed it to put the pivot between three and four. That's where the center of gravity is. Without the transmission, it's between two and three.
Pictures by self timer and me.
Nice adaption, having that balance point does help as you disassemble the engine. For me, the adaptor plate sold for this use is nice, marked the bolt holes so I would remember