Pedal removal: Why is this bolt here?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Pedal removal: Why is this bolt here?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 - 01:20 pm:



Not having done this before, I thought that by taking the nut off the retaining bolt I could pull off the pedal support and the pedal and shaft would slide right out with it. As you see here, that worked for the brake pedal. But the low pedal was more stubborn. With the nut removed it still wouldn't budge. When I did a little scraping through the dirt and grease and paint I found the reason. The support is part of the casting. So if the pedal support can't be removed, why is there a "retaining" bolt through it? I don't see any reason for a bolt there.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 - 01:30 pm:

Steve,

I think that bolt holds the pedal cam on the inside of the hog's head. Have a look inside.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Chaffin on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 - 01:33 pm:

Good morning Steve! Or afternoon for you. I think it is used to hold that cam thingy on inside the transmission. Move the camera over to the left about six inches and take another picture:D Also, you will need to knock the pin out of the clutch cam (3428) to get that pedal out. Now. Go have that cup of Joe!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Horlick in Penn Valley, CA on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 - 02:03 pm:

Steve, it sounds like you are working on a new skill. If you don't have a good reason to pull the pedal off of your (exceptionally clean!) hogshead consider leaving it installed and proceed to do whatever you have in mind.

If you are chasing oil leaks, a loose, wobbly low pedal, or a worn out cam then you may want to pull it out. I've just done some new shafts on my RHD project car... you have to be very careful how you line everything up if you are drilling new shafts, otherwise you just have to be clever on how you peen in replacement pins... I use an old piece of iron rail from a narrow gauge RR standing on end as an anvil. In any case, be aware that if you drive out or drill out the pins you will end up riveting new ones in place inside the transmission cover where access isn't the best possible.

If you are doing an anally thorough job on pulling it apart you will also have to pull the pins on the clutch fork and deal with that.


... just saying... Consider stopping before you go further than you really need to.

TH


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 - 06:00 pm:

Model Ts are supposed to leak.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Aldrich Orting Wa on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 - 06:57 pm:

If a Model T is not leaking them it is empty!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 - 09:36 pm:

I suggest you buy the transmission book. It explains how to do the transmission. :-) LOL


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 - 10:08 pm:

Terry, good advice. I have enough I really need to do, without adding anything I don't need to do. The aim here is to check the condition of transmission parts, fix anything that needs it, and charge the magnets.

Mark, got it. Now I just need to find it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 - 10:47 pm:

Steve

The hogshead off first! When you disassemble a T engine....:-)

That low speed pedal has its notch is held inside by that bolt, ....and most important is the mate notch is riveted to the low speed shaft. You have to drive out that rivet, and its a tough thing to do without damage. Especially you have that early aluminum hogshead, so take extra care.

You can drill out the rivet if you are using a new shaft and notch. Or if you are re-using the shaft and notch, lots of care so you don't wollow out the rivet hole. And you must support the aluminum casting boss inside, and make a good buck to support the notch as you drive a new rivet there. No way can this be done with the hogshead on.



Low speed pedal already removed by driving out the notch rivet.



Inside view in hogshead, showing low speed notch on shaft, and you can see the rivet that has to be removed. That low speed shaft has been 'cut' off for the demountable bands to be used. Your low speed shaft will be full length, in a '15, and the low speed adj. screw on the right side of the hogshead will have a hollow shaft to slide over that part, then holding the non-demountable band ears.


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