Good sheet metal repair in southern cal?

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Good sheet metal repair in southern cal?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew David Maiers on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 - 08:09 pm:

so i have a 1924 roadster, and the side panels are pretty screwed up, my grandfather tried repairing these, and i have tried repairing them and now its time for a professional.

basically the whole bottom 4 inches of them needs to be replaced. id like to have this done with as much steel as possible and keep bondo to a minimum.

does anybody have any reccomendations?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 06:22 am:

Do it yourself?

my first attempt at sheet metal repair was very satisfying...what do you have to lose?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 06:24 am:

then...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 06:26 am:

then...


no bondo yet


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By KEN PARKER on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 08:21 am:

Scott,

What gauge metal do you use and where do you get it?

Ken in Texas


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 08:30 am:

20 ga.

purchased from local metal supplier.

had them shear off a 4", 6" and 9" width off of the 4' end of a 4x8 sheet.

I had purchased lower patch panels for our roadster and they were so poorly/generically formed that I returned them.

The fellow who had no experience but built a door and posted on this forum inspired me and got me off my butt, getting me started after a 18 month delay of worrying and fidgeting over whether or not I could do it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 08:36 am:

I should add that for those without the opportunity to purchase material due to living rural...Lang's and perhaps others will sell a generic straight patch that is 4' long, with a lip bent into it to form the lower lip that nails up into the frame. NOTE: I found that the panel was slightly bowed when the lip was put in, so you'll have to slit the lip and straighten and reweld as necessary to make the panel "straight" if that's what you need.

Of all the panels I purchased...this was the one I kept. I used some of it to make the narrow/long piece in the middle of my panel. Can be seen on photo of unpainted/complete drivers panel above.

After that, I bought my own material locally and made all of the patches for my car, by hand.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 08:54 am:

Her's the skinning a door thread by Jack McRoberts: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/314864.html?1353833341
Jack was inspired by Ron Dupree's door bottom repair: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/314061.html?1348736762


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By KEN PARKER on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 09:01 am:

Scott,

Do you use the little clips to hold the joint where you can tack it or clamp and tack?

Ken in Texas


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew David Maiers on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 11:08 am:

Well mine are in about that condition. on the drivers side ive done an OK job at replacing steel up to the bun panel. i ended up using a touring patch that like you said was crudely formed but i persuaded it to do what i wanted.

thats been the real challenge is being able to replace that bun panel.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 03:12 pm:

Ken

I tried those darned things and couldn't get the metal to line up worth a hoot. Many times the original panel is a bit thinner in some places, than 20 gage due to rust, and the trick is to get the OUTSIDE surface of the metal panels to be flush and then tack.

I use clamps (C-clamps) and back up with copper to keep from burning through on the first few tacks until there is some mass there.

Matthew

good for you...you're a better man than me...there appeared to be so much work in shaping that replacement panel properly that I decided to get my money back and build my own.

Make a form and beat out a rear corner patch. Keep at it and you'll figure it out! Good Luck.


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration