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By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 02:11 pm:While I have the engine out of the car, I'm going to replace these bolts with rivets.
While removing bolts I noticed this crack. It seems that starting out to fix one thing often brings you to something else that needs fixing.
By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 03:04 pm:Somebody might come in with a better way but I think i would drill a 1/16th hole at each end of those cracks,v them out and lay a weld in there.
And then if possiable,v out the underside and give it a bead.You will have to grind out a bit on the bottom to level it out but that or weld a thin support piece under there that covers the area the rubber pad lays on would help
By Les VonNordheim on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 04:08 pm:Steve,
From the top side, grind a V the full length of the crack. The V should extend deep removing the crack so that you get full weld penetration. I like to back up the bottom side with 1/4" thk. copper flat stock clamped in place. Using copper as a back up, keeps a flat surface on the back side. The copper will pop off after completing the weld operation. If you are using a Mig welder, make sure the rust is removed in both top and bottom weld areas. Mig welding requires clean surfaces for void free welds. Stick weld provides better penetration and is not as critical for contamination compared to Mig.
By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 04:27 pm:Yep, it will be clean before I weld it.
In keeping with the theme of The further you go the more you find, here's more boogered up stuff for the "To do" list.
By Dennis Seth - Ohio on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 05:04 pm:Gee Steve...Why do you buy these brand new cars and then trash them.
It's much better to find this and repair it correctly the first time then to pass over it and have trouble when your on the road.
By Keith Gumbinger, Kenosha, WI on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 05:26 pm:Steve - I sent you a PM.
Keith
By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 06:21 pm:Hey, that looks like a pretty good fix. Here's what I ran into once. One long bolt was just stuck in and bent over like a nail. And, you can see that this was a 26 frame converted to 25. (Not me or mine)
The crack at the front mount is common. Vee it and get deep penetration on your weld. grind it flush and it'll be good as new.
By Bob McDonald-Federal Way, Wa. on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 07:05 pm:Steve
That's how so many T's and parts are still around, the novice could find a way to keep them going. No money,not much time and a great amount of need to make it to the job. I'm glad that they did what they did. I have fixed these things also.
Keep up the great posts and work, This is the good life.
Bob
By Randy Driscoll on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 07:53 pm:Welding the crack in the crossmember won't be near as much work as welding shut all those 5/16" holes and redrilling to 1/4", unless you plan on using 5/16" rivets instead of the original 1/4". Working with 5/16" rivets in tight quarters is much more difficult than working with 1/4" rivets. If you got something better use it, if not, fix what you got.
By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 08:43 pm:I happen to have a drawer full of 5\16" rivets. 
By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 10:08 pm:Well that is odd.
When I put bolts in there,I had to use a metric size to get a tight fit.
Besides,it is best to tighten all those bolts or others,then remove 1 at the time and rivot.
By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 10:45 pm:Steve Jeff:
Its too bad you are not closer I have some cross members I would give you. BE SURE to put your bolts in up side down not the way they are now. The way they are now will with the bottom nut on the radiator support bottom nut strip. Its really best to rivet the cross member on.
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