I picked up a derilict 26 engine with the hopes of fixing it up to use while I pull the engine out of my pick up to rebuild. I got the crank out today and got it cleaned up enough to see what I have. There is pitting on all the rod and main bearing journals. I don't have a way to measure the depth but conservatively, the deepest looks to be 0.010" deep. I measured the journal diameters in two planes to determine out of round as well as diameter. The first main measured 1.246/ 1.246, the #1 rod journal was 1.240/1.241, the #2 rod journal was 1.238/1.239 the second main was 1.246/1.245, the #3 rod journal was 1.236/1.237, the #4 rod journal was 1.233/1.241, and the third main was 1.231/1.232. given that the pits are 0.010, that would mean reducing the journal diameters by 0,020 if I were to have the crank reground or turned. Other options would be to spray weld and polish. I'm not sure what either approach would cost so I'm asking the forum members to comment on wether this crank is worth the effort and if so, what's the best approach?
Might want to check for cracks before making a decision.
I would not invest any more money in it.
Spray weld will not work on a crankshaft. Only way to build up is with a crankshaft welding machine. I have a rebuild crank in stock, it is all standard. If you want one, PM me. Dan
If crack free, a regrind can go to .040 with no problems.
The crank can be saved as long as it's not cracked.!
The pitting isn't that detrimental to the crankshaft itself main concern is if it's cracked.
Dan, We have a club member that spray welds cranks and other machine surfaces and has for years done quality work and a thriving business.
Mostly high end racing stuff and is not cheap though.
To me I would invest the money in a new crank.
I have said for years that things like bad crankshafts should not be scrapped unless they are really bad. Behind the garage, under the house, and in the corners of the rafters is where they belong.
I will offer to store any that anyone wants to give me.
The truth is, all crankshafts (especially model T crankshafts) have between dozens and hundreds of minute imperfections that could start the formation of a crack. That kind of pitting added few thousand more. I would very much prefer to not use it. At this point in time, I would not spend any money on it. It is a bit too risky. Twenty years from now, one might be very glad to have one like that.
Drive carefully, an enjoy, W2
The crankshaft in our 13 touring was metal sprayed and ground oversize. It was in our T when we bought the car....15 years ago. We have been driving our T for 14 yrs. without any bearing problems. No shims removed to date. The crankshaft is not an EE and is the earlier diamond style. I consider my self as being lucky that the crankshaft has not broken to date. Tomorrow may be another story. It's not if the crankshaft will break.....the unknown is when.
Provided your EE crank is not cracked, suggest grinding the journals until they are round and the same size (Rods one size, Mains one size). Don't worry about any pits remaining....just more places to hold oil.
Talk to the person who does the metal spray....possibly they could metal spray your crankshaft and grind it oversize like the one in our T. Just a suggestion!
The rear axles, where the outside bearing goes in our 1910 REO were metal sprayed 35 yrs. ago and have not failed. They were built up to accept a modern sealed ball bearing.
The EE 26/27 cranks are high carbon steel while the earlier cranks are vanadium steel which likely makes them less prone to breakage, but does make them more prone to wear. Many of the EE 26/27 cranks I've seen seem to wear "off center" at the third main journal (likely due to imbalance of the flywheel & trans). You might measure the third main journal to be maybe .006 undersize, but you may have to grind it .012"-.014" undersize before it is nice and clean all the way around.
(And that is on a crank with no pitting)
Hard Chrome is another option.
Hard chrome will not remove the pits, it will only fill them, maybe.