How do you fix this problem with the hand break misalignment? I not know the names of the parts, but you can see the break screw does not glide evenly over the part it is suppose to glide over evenly. lol Thank you in advance for your help. Oh, it looks like the part on the cross member should have a screw to unscrew so it can be slide over to the left. It looks like it is broken off.
Sorry it's spelled 'brake.' Shoot me after you give your advice. thanks.
Bend it to the right. I would use a big crescent wrench or an enormous pair of channel lock pliers.
Royce,I hope you are talking about the trany piece. I would take this opportunity to replace that worn bolt. Maybe even turn it upside down and get more surface area on the cam
I would replace the bolt too. Yours is shot.
Yep, the first two pictures show that the clutch lever is bent to the left.
Before you bend anything, check out the ears on the crankcase. The one on the drivers side could be severly bent or cracked. Usually the cause of this problem is the engine crooked in the frame. If that is the case, it's only a matter of time till the engine will drop down and the pedals will be against the floorboard.
Steve is right, the clutch lever is bent to the left. It should be straight, as in Royce's picture. There is no screw missing on the ramp where it joins the cross-shaft. It's brazed onto the shaft.
Robert, I bend the clutch arm using two large crescent wrenches. Close the jaws on one against the lever as close as you can to the shaft. Use the second wrench adjusted so that it makes a handle to twist the first. That way, when you heave on the second wrench, the effort you put in is at right angles to the arm and you will not twist it.
Hops this helps.
Allan from down under.
I've always wondered why the bolt is in backwards. I turned mine around. The jam nut should be on the bottom side, too.
I have found that after getting perfect alignment, it helps to use a carriage bolt upside down, so that the smooth head of the carriage bolt contacts the ramp.
I also smooth the head of the carriage bolt, first with coarse sandpaper then fine (actually, I use a belt sander). Also smooth the ramp with very fine sandpaper, then grease lightly.
If done right, with the car at rest, engine off and no pedals pressed, you can pull the brake handle from high to neutral with hardly any effort.
I grind a ramp on the bolt head and install the bolt from the bottom. Same idea as Bud H. With the ramp on the bolt turned directly into the ramp on the lever cam, the handle works so nice and smooth---. It does mean adjustment is by full-turn increments, but that adjustment is not that critical. This also prevents beating the threaded end so badly it needs to be cut off to be removed. I put the lock-nut on top.
I see you have a cast cam on the brake/clutch cross-shaft. That is a brass era part. It looks like it has been changed as the rivet appears to be missing. If well brazed, it should be okay, but check it over. That cam being changed could be part of why it doesn't line up. I do find that there is a lot of variation from T to T, hogshead to hogshead, and cross-shaft to cross-shaft.
You should look at pan mounting to be sure it is straight (as previously mentioned). Then make whatever adjustment seems best to make things line up.
On most hogsheads I have looked at, the clutch-shaft arm is straighter than yours. I would probably bend that.
Warning! If, by chance, you have an aluminum hogshead, be very careful bending that clutch-shaft arm. It can be done without breaking the hogshead, but breaking the hogshead is very easy to do.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
On RPs pic the bolts holding the control shaft on are upside down. Should have the heads on top as per the service manual, page 22, Fig 65
They're correct on Royce's pic