Installing new transmission bands without a helper is almost an impossibility.
A third hand is required to compress the band while two hands replace the washer and adjusting nut.
Installing the reverse band has to be done first and that one is the most difficult to install.
I gave up after about an hour today, but then went back for another try.
A piece of safety wire made it all possible.
I placed the spring on the post and the safety wire around the errant ear and back around the reverse pedal, then started twisting the wire to shorten it.
I made more rapid progress with a few small wood scraps for shims.
The wire held while i replaced the washer and adjusting nut with both hands.
A small magnetic pick-up on the shaft held the washer in place and let me concentrate on the nut with both hands.
Then, I only had to adjust the nut a little more, cut and remove the wire and rags.
If I get real brave, I may still try the low band today.
String or wire is an old shade tree trick. Some folks use zip ties.
You can also get a clamp from the vendors:
I use plastic wire ties and it's easy. I never have a helper. Rags like, I see in your picture, are very important but make sure you take out as many as you put in. A rag that is run through the transmission a time or two turns to jelly and is hard to clean out. Ask me how I know
I've heard conflicting stories, can that vendor clamp be installed and removed through the access door?
You need this tool:
from Lang or ?
You also need wood band liners.
I use zip ties and rags. Most important is to disconnect the battery and take the key out of the switch. For me I wouldn't consider a helper for this type of work, he says oops and your the one stuck fishing out a washer or nut.
I recently did this job for the first time and I learned a few things. I was told by one T expert, a really experienced guy who knows his stuff, that he did it with the hogshead on only once, and has never tried it again. But I decided to give it a go. I worked on it a little at a time for a couple of weeks so I wouldn't get too mad.
I found that removing the Bendix cover allowed me to move the reverse shaft completely out of the way.
Yes, install the reverse band first so it won't be riding on the flange.
Having tried the other bands both ways, I'll put in the brake band after reverse, and the low band last, from now on.
The band puller that wraps around the drums is very handy. It was pretty simple to make.
A piece of steel pallet strap with a wood handle added to one end and a pair of slots cut in the other end to grab the band.
Doing this job for the first time, with all the trial and error, was frustrating and at times infuriating. But having successfully done it once now and learned some things to do and some things not to do, I'm not afraid to do it again.
Hey Steve, I can not find my book, but I think Henry said that this job could be done in a few minutes, not weeks
Would have been nice if Henry left a quarter inch more space. Do you hear me Henry!!!? A QUARTER INCH!!!
Gus, the book says forty minutes. I'm not there yet.
Somebody posted and old advertisement about the "new style" transmission bands saying that it could be done in less than 15 minutes!
I think Ford advertised that a Ford mechanic named Joe (cant remember the last name) could do it in that length of time.
I did a search but couldn't find it. Its in there somewhere.
Steve, I think it is important that you get the practice you need to become proficient, and the best way is for all people who need bands should bring their cars to you, by the time every one here has new bands, you should be able to do it in 40 minutes.
The last time I did a band job was for a friend about a month ago. That one took about 4 hours.
The last time I put bands in my T was 14 years ago and I gave up, but a friend volunteered to help me and we got them in OK, that took about 4 hours for the successful try.
Today was also a 4 hour job alone.
The low band went in with no trouble.
The brake band required a method to tether the band in place long enough to add the washer and start the adjustment nut.
That project took longer and again required me to wire the ears in place and then add the washer and nut.
The first problem was the wire kept slipping off the right side ears. That was solved by a thin piece of wood placed under the pedal shaft.
The second problem was the pedal shaft did not protrude quite far enough to start the nut. That was solved by placing a wood shim between the pedal arm and the wire loop.
Then the cloth was added to keep the nut and washer from going south. The nut started easily and all 3 bands were in place.
This photo is kind of blurry, I evidently did not wait for the camera to focus and just pushed the button.
Once the wood shims were removed, the wire loop just lifted off without even being cut.
I left the cover off to pour some oil on the bands a few times to help them soak in place.
"You can have any color you want, as long as its orange" You think Henry said that, James? Congratulations, you can adapt and overcome. However, I've never heard of someone tying the wire around a pedal. But thats all right - it worked! I've enjoyed reading everyone's techniques on this little task. Mine hasn't been mentioned here. I think I wrote it up in another post last year. But my opinion is -and I think everyone is entitled to my opinion - I cut a coat hanger about 3" long with about a 3/4" 'leg' on each end. I'll first slip the left 'leg' over the left side band 'ear, Then, with a large screwdriver, I pry the right side band 'ear' toward the center from the right side prying on the inspection opening. Then slip the right coathanger 'leg' over the right side band 'ear'.Then its a simple chore to slip the washer and nut on the threads when you can remove the screwdriver. Then I'll re-use the coathanger length on the next band. With copious lint-free rags on the right side, of course. But, any way where success is attained is a good way.
Here is an answer for those who want to avoid all the hastle. You can change the bands in less than 15 minutes if you need to or do it at leasure with no problems. its good to know you can change a band on the side of the road with just a few spanners.
I decided to make a RHD version of an accessory called a Hirmico (spelling) hogshead.
My T has a body design which makes it hard to work on the bands, I'm sure owners of sedans would find this the case.
George, the engine is really red. The light was bad. It was left over from my fire chief's car and all rebuilt, so I decided to try it out and use it, after it sat in the garage for 14 years.
I sold that car to a guy in Maine 14 years ago and no one has seen it since or another one like it. He did not want to pay extra for the rebuilt engine and transmission.
Great effort, Peter
Is it hard to make it oil tight after you've disassembled the pedal part for a band change?
No problem, There is only the gap from the hacksaw blade between the two parts. A bit of silicone in the gap does the trick.
There is 3/4" overlap from the flat bar and the bar is brazed to the removable piece.