All of a sudden my t T just started getting sluggish no power or rpm' s I put on a new Potter carb. Then4 rebuilt Patterson coils But same problem,you can.run it all day in low wide open and it gets to a certain level of rpm' s and it just levels off. Same in drive just don't have the rpm' s just took it out f or a short drive about 3 miles an manifold was red hot,don't have it too lean if anything It is a little rich
usually a red hot manifold is caused by running too retarded. That would also cause sluggish performance.
If the Timer is set correctly, is it possible that the cam gear jumped a tooth and is holding back combustion exhaust?
How fast are you going? What is the compression? Are you using the spark lever as you should for the RPM? Which carb and how far do you have the needle open? (Yes each one is a little different)
Did your timing rod become disconnected from the timer? You may be moving the timing lever but not the timer. Happened to me once.
Checked timing it is ok,lever is hooked up have New NH carb,set it liked book described, opened it up until engine run rough them closed it slowly until it smoothed out about 1/8 turn, I would like to check compression but can't find a gauge that will work
Not to doubt you, but are you absolutely sure the timing is OK? What you have described all points there.
Get one of the adapters the vendors sell that adapts a 14mm spark plug to the stock T head. Then any compression gauge will fit.
Buy one of the adapters that the suppliers sell to convert from pipe thread spark plugs to 14mm plugs. That will allow you to use an off-the-shelf compression tester. It's really what you need to do next, in my opinion.
By the way, it is impossible to "jump a tooth" in the timing gears. (It is however possible to jump all the teeth, but you need a fiber timing gear to do it.)
Good idea, Jerry.
Yep, install one of these and you won't have to worry about sluggish running (or any other kind).
Glad to hear that timing gears never jump a tooth in these cars.
The Glowing exhaust manifold could be related to the rpm limitation if it is a new symptom.
Were heavier valve springs recently installed?
Could it be an obstruction in the exhaust?
Assuming that you are running on "mag" and that after starting engine, you do switch over from "bat" to "mag", but in re-reading this thread, nobody really ever asked you,....??? If however, you are running on "bat", and especially if you have a stock 6 volt battery, this will limit rpm's to something less than normal highest speed rpm for normal running Model T engine.
Again, assuming you are running on mag, I think the most probable cause of the limited rpm and "red hot" exhaust would be late (retarded) ignition timing,.....FWIW,......harold
My mag don't work I run the coils on a 12v battery in the back of the car,this has worked well for three years, no new engine work has been done and this is a new problem that just developed about three weeks ago that's why I had Ron rebuild the coils and I replaced the carb.
I had an Anderson Timer that had worn somewhat and got to where when the engine rocked back and forth on shut down, it would automatically 'advance' the timing. Before starting it, I went to retard it again. I hit it kinda hard with my hand. Kinda like 'slapping' it into the retard position, and since it was hung up inside, it actually bent the timer rod and I had to re-set my timing.
I'd make dang sure that when the lever is full up, it is firing just after TDC.
Any chance a critter has taken up residence in the muffler? I had that issue and only realized it when I hit the cut out for the exhaust whistle and noticed a dramatic increase in power right away when the whistle blew!
Maybe try a downhill ignition switch off/on backfire to blow out the exhaust pipe. I just did it accidentally when descending the hill to my driveway.
You'll blow you muffler that way. Had a bad ignition switch on our 27 and I blew two mufflers till I was able to repair the switch
When setting the spray needle go by what you see and hear not just what the book says which is a general setting.
The spray needle should be set at idle, close down the spray needle till the engine runs ruff then open till smooths out. Open a bit more if/as needed.
Clockwise is close, counter is open.
Check to make sure your choke butterfly is staying open.
A lean mixture will also make your manifold glow.
Part of the unburnt fuels job is to cool the valves as it passes out the port so you do not want to run too lean.
Try cleaning or replacing the plugs. If they get carboned up it will miss, and or lose power.
retarded timing , restricted exhaust, leaking intake manifold, burned valve(s) or maladjusted adjustable lifter(s)
several if not all of these things can be diagnosed with a vacuum gauge.
Lang's sells an adapter to easily fit a vacuum gauge into the intake system to start to correctly diagnose your problem