Starter bendix problem

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2009: Starter bendix problem
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Gray on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 08:41 pm:

I pulled my starter drive unit drive today and found this mess. I order a new bendix/starter drive and another starter drive gear w/balance ring and head sleeve (see pic it too is cracked) to repair this one as a spare. My question is does the end of the bendix just screw off ( see arrow below)? Is it right hand thread? and special holding device t oget it off so I can install the new drive gear. Thanks in advance. Tim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Gray on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 08:46 pm:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jack daron-Indy. on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 08:51 pm:

They are right hand threads and are staked, The other end also looks craked ? If so, it will be expensive to rebuild.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Gray on Tuesday, March 24, 2009 - 09:27 pm:

Cracked part is $7.95


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 12:18 am:

Tim, that counter weight can be welded back on too. Kind of tricky, but can be done. Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave_Sosnoski on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 12:19 am:

If you look at the threaded on end there are two holes. After this piece is threaded on, the threaded part is staked from the inside into these two holes. To remove it, take a small punch, stick it into the holes and push out the metal that was staked into them. You will now be able to unscrew the end. When you reinstall it, take a small punch and deform the threaded part into these holes from the inside to keep it from
coming loose.

The other end is crimped on. To remove it place it in a vice and squeeze the two tangs together. That will deform the crimped part allowing you to remove it. The new one will have two small slots on each side. Slip it over the end of the bendix and use a screwdriver to punch the metal between the two slots into the groove in the bendix - crimping it to the shaft. When done it should spin freely.

The gear can be fixed. You can weld the counter weight back onto the gear, just make sure you don't weld where the little hole is. Or - just replace the gear.

Make sure you install the little spring loaded pin into the hole in the counterweight. This keeps the gear from bouncing back into the ring gear when it comes back. The pin should ride on the top of the thread and drop into the recess on the right side in your photo. Make sure it doesn't get hung up going in and out of the recess.

Dave S.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Todd on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 10:34 am:

When you put the gear back on, make sure you get it in the right thread. IIRC there are 3 threads and the gear MUST be in the correct one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 05:36 pm:

Ken Todd
Your post immediately above got my attention.
I rebuild a lot of Model T starters and understand Bendix drive fundamentals, but am no expert. I have repaired and assembled several Bendix drives including removing/installing the drive gear on the shaft. After reading your message I inspected a new Model T Bendix drive and try as I might I cannot see any reason why the drive gear has to be threaded on the shaft on any particular one of the three threads. I then went to my Bendix Eclipse handbook and could find no mention of a specific way to install the drive gear on the shaft.
Can you elaborate on why one has to install the drive gear in a particular manner?
Ron the Coilman


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adrian Whiteman on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 06:13 pm:

Ken - are you meaning the bush on the end of the shaft (arrow in picture above) not the drive gear itself?
If so, would it be to ensure the holes for the pin (stake) to line up with the hole (?) through the shaft?
If you are on the wrong thread, the bush would not line up with the holes?
(I don't know - just guessing as i have never had one apart)
Cheers
Adrian


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 06:55 pm:

Adrian
The Bendix "stop nut" (Tim Gray's arrow) has only one thread.
The Bendix "drive gear" and "shaft" has three at 120 degree intervals and the gear can be started in any one.
I am baffled why the "shaft/gear" thread used makes a difference. I was hoping Ken Todd can teach me something?
To my way of thinking the "drift pin" properly enters the "shaft" detent regardless which thread you use and the position of the gear on the Bendix "shaft" cannot matter as the starting motor armature can stop in any position.
But what do I know, I am not a Bendix drive expert and only provide a proper starter armature spin with at least 12 foot pounds of torque. Grin
Ron the Coilman


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adrian Whiteman on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 - 08:00 pm:

Thanks Ron, makes more sense now.
Not having dismantled one completely I was just guessing there.
Keep up the advice,

Cheers
adrian


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Gray on Thursday, March 26, 2009 - 05:28 pm:

Thanks to all the great advice, I got it off!! ( with help from those sticky jar opener pads)


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