What is the name of the oil that is claimed to be better than others on the market. Is it "kroil" and is it made or bought?

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4

But some say that a 50/50 home made mixture of ATF and Acetone works better and is certainly a WHOLE lot less expensive.

More $$$ available for ice cream !

I have used Kroil and I get it at NAPA. Good stuff. I have also made 50/50 mix when I have a lot of rusted parts to repair but Kroil is great for small jobs.

"The oil that creeps"
I like it but use ATF/lacquer thinner 50/50.
Rich

Kroil oil, so easy in spray can to use.

You can drip the ATF/acetone on but it has to reach the crevices that a spray can does better.

Soaked some rusted bolts and nuts in it as a test, then sprayed two other similar rusted bolts and nuts with Kroil. The Kroil ones came apart easier.

Plus, the container of ATF/acetone had a lid, but guess not too tight, the stuff evaporated. My Kroil spray can is still full

Acetone is $7 a qt at home stores, ATF is $8 quart. Total $15 plus tax and drive to and from store, find a container, and mix. Limited shelf life due to evap.

Kanolabs order direct 13oz large spray can $16, and then delivered to my door by the Brown Truck

Gibbs I real good too. Stan put me on to it. A little cheaper then Kroil but good stuff.

SAFETY ALERT, When I worked at Texaco lab, We used acetone but were cautioned to wear gloves and limit exposure as acetone is a chemical that accumulates in the body and is not flushed out, avoid skin contact and breathing the fumes.

Jim, how about brake cleaner and lacquer thinner health hazrds? I use them quite a bit... Thanks, Bill

There is NO substitute for Aero Kroil!

Where did I recently see a chart on this ? "Liquid Wrench" , Kroil, and 50/50 acetone-ATF were all about equally effective, "PB Blaster" came in fourth.

Rich - I've seen the results of that test in several places, and the acetone/ATF 50/50 mixture was by far the best, and second was Kroil. As I remember, Liquid Wrench really did not do very well at all.

Dan - My impression when I originally read about the acetone/ATF mixture was that you just keep some ATF and some acetone on hand and just mix up a small amount for immediate use,....you don't really try to store it for future use. Even in a sealed container, the two components separate quite quickly, and you have to continually shake it up during use. And as you say, if you try to store it, the acetone evaporates. I just pour small equal amounts into a semi-transparent plastic squeeze bottle and mix it for immediate use,....FWIW,....harold

Steve Jelf had posted this back in 2014. Good reference to hang onto!
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/462586.html?1405871499

Take Care; Behave; Keep Breathing (and)
"T-reat yourself with some 'Sweet-T'!!!"

This might be more recent?
https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/how-to-make-penetrating-oil/

I bought a T chassis that had been sitting outside for no telling how long and the engine was stuck tight. I soaked the cylinders in 50/50 ATF-acetone for a few days, maybe a week and it then it broke loose easily with the hand crank. I mix it up and keep some in a gallon can now and dunk rusted parts in it.

What is the american product that really works? Like, it made all other penetrating oils look like some kids put kerosene in a spray can & hoped. I know i've seen it. It's one from the USA, you spray it on rust & it actually starts dissolving it, but it's oily. From what i remember the can had purple on it.

Jim D, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't nail polish remover acetone? If so then my wife and daughter should wear gloves when removing thier nail polish?

Harold

Like you noted, the mix of ATF and acetone evaporates. I prefer the Kroil

Tried dripped on soaks with ATF/Acetone and it dried out, (evaporated) so you have to cover the parts I guess with plastic wraps or something.

Plus I use Kroil in many ways, and like the spray the best to get into places on the chassis were you cannot soak. Perhaps dunk soaking the entire part with ATF/Acetone is ok, but you can't submerge soak every kind of part on a T.

Since the Kroil won't evaporate, you can make applications over hours at a time and have great results. If you like ATF/acetone, that's fine, but for me spray can of Aero Kroil is always on my workbench, an always ready handy tool.

For the most difficult tasks....







or the easier tasks...

This guy did a decent job of controlling and accounting for variation. Surprising results...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

Thanks for that post Corey, that's the comparison I recall seeing.

1 thing that matters that folks may not realize.
When you lay something on the bench that is stuck,you grab chemical A, it don't work,so you grab chemical B and it don't work. By the time some folks get around to using a quality oil like Kroil,it can't do it's job because it can't get passed A,B,and C that are already on the part.
If it is valuable,you want it broke loose and don't like games or the idea of damaging the part,use Kroil or your best stuff FIRST.

I am still waiting for my ship to come in so i can get a ultrasonic cleaner and a gallon or more of Kroil and soak the frozen stuck parts in that.Should work like a champ to break stuff loose.