I bought a new lead gasket to seal my sediment bulb but trying to tighten it down, the gasket cracked. It never came close to sealing. I'll order another one, but do you guys have any other tips?
Order several, they have a long shelf life. Also make sure the mating surfaces are smooth. If rough or pitted it will be nearly impossible to seal.
I use both a copper gasket / seal ring plus a small amount
of liquid thread tape to seal this area. On the valve spindle
I have found lead packing works well.
Back in the 60s, in a little town in West Texas we made almost every gasket used. For something like a sediment bulb, kite string coated with aviation permatex was the fix. Hang the string like a clothes line , coat it with permatex the next day make several raps above the male threads, screw it on tight and your good to go. Worked on rear ends too. The down side, permatex on your hands lasted a long time too.
Thick gasket paper from the local auto parts store works fine. Easy peasy.
The thread and Permatex thing will work well, but be sure that when you wrap it above the male threads, you wrap it so that when you screw it together, the friction will tighten rather then loosen the string. It may seem obvious, but I hate to think how many times I have started to install thread tape the wrong way.
What Steve Jelf did! Simple, easy, efficient.
I have rebuilt many sediment bulbs, and have never had a problem with the lead gasket. From the looks of the outlet cap, perhaps there is a problem there?
Don't forget for the valve parts
Also I use Seal-All on the threads, gas & oil resistant.
Could you please elaborate on how you use lead packing on the valve stem? Or did I misunderstand? What form does this lead packing come in and where do you place it? All the ones I have seen are just a bronze on cast iron taper and they are sometimes a real pain to get to quit leaking. I am VERY interested in any new tricks to solve this problem.
I don't see how a lead gasket would crack since they are fairly soft and not brittle. But I guess anything is possible. I have used several over the years with no problem. But again there is also a first time. If both surfaces are flat and don't have any burrs it seems to me it should work
I did have one that was a little tight going over the screen end.
I got a small pen knife and trimmed the ID just enough to not have to force it over. Worked fine after that.
Just use valve lapping compound on the tapered valves, works beautiful, nice and smooth
Steve is that screen from Langs? If so what is the part # Thanks Doug
If the inlet screen is used does one install the outlet screen also?
The outlet screen is already part of the sediment bulb. It's installed at the factory.
That screen was turned to dust in mine when I took it apart. I guess it's a yes to install both since you have both Steve