I just had a Classtique top installed on my 1926 Ford roadster. Am a little surprised that top material snaps (2 each to mate with 2 each on both rearmost bows/sockets) weren’t included. I have the 2 factory halves of these fasteners on both rear bows/sockets but without the mates on the top material, the copra grain just flaps when driving. I know I could buy this product from Restoration Supply but would rather buy 4 original halves from a Forum Friend possibly with tattered, unusable top. Any out there?
Have you called Mike? He's a real helpful guy. I'd call him first!
Likely that used push button snap fasteners are crimped to the fabric, with the circular ring to sandwich between the fabric. Removing and reusing isn't really possible as the metal sleeve surrounding the spring arms is flatten with seating tools.
Snap fasteners, foreground are original, push snap and female socket. Background are reproduction (Lang's). Not shown are the circular rings to place around the snap fastener shank to crimp with special tool to the fabric.
The reproduction work best as new pair, as the original sockets in top irons are usually worn and the spring inside is too loose to help retain the two arms of the male snap fastener.
Having just completed my top for my 26 roadster I think I can explain this. In the instructions there is this. "Note: We supply in our kits the fasteners to install the rear curtain sides to the inside of the bow legs; however, they may differ from the original ones. With the volume of manufacturing we do, only limited quantities are available if they can be found. If you insist on having the exact fasteners you will need to locate them." My kit came with the Lift the dot fasteners which I was just fine with. So George seems like your doing what Mike and Classtique are recommending. Jim
Great advice ! Thanks to all. I’ve renickeled ($95) and installed (with some difficulty) the non Model T rear window frame I bought from you Dan. I like it a lot. Do I unscrew the snaps on the ‘bow legs’, install the repops and simply position the other half to top material and crimp it?? Drove the T 7 miles into town today to get a haircut and the new top worked fine. Thanks to Ross Lilleker for the install.
One reason they were not placed on the top is that the fit can vary according to how the top is installed. But they should have been furnished with with the top so that you could install them. I have seen three types on cars one was the push button as shown by Dan Treace. There is also a snap and the third type is a twist toggle. I am not sure which type was original.
I haven't owned a 26 for fifty years, but don't recall ever seeing the fasteners posted above by Dan. I have a very original '25, and it uses Anzo fasteners.
Does Langs have the male fastener that installs in the rear bow with the "protrusion" that holds the rear curtain between the top material and rear top bow? Can someone provide Langs part number for it? I have seen male fasteners without the protrusion. Does anyone have the part number that Restoration Supply sells the male fastener with the protrusion?
The Improved Cars used the push button snap fastener on the rear gypsy curtain or wing (that part of the wrap around of the rear top piece, part of the top) to mount to the rear top iron on the runabout and touring. When you lower a top, you must un-snap those fasteners or else you will tear the gypsy or at least pull away some tacks
The snap fastener is secured by the female socket placed in the rear top iron. 2 ea. on each rear iron, plus 2 each sockets on the middle panel between the doors of the touring car.
The rest of the door curtains for the runabout and touring use Lift-the-Dot fasteners. Except for the rear door curtain where the push button fasteners are.
At those spots on the curtain, a simple metal grommet is placed. The push button fastener post goes through that grommet to attach the door curtain, which is then placed first on the iron, and the gypsy is then fastened on top. That way the rear door curtain sheds the water away, the gypsy giving double coverage inside.
If you don't want original snap fasteners on the gypsy, you can use Lift-the-Dot there. Just fill the socket holes and drill and tap new holes near them on the inside of the rear top iron for the Lift-the-Dot posts.
Female spring loaded socket on the rear top iron, is press fit into the two large holes on the iron.
Simple 'grommet' for the rear door curtain, hole is big enough to clear the O.D. of the base of the female socket on the rear top iron, so that the curtain lays flat to sandwich the gypsy that has the male push button fastener, which then locks the pieces together.
Snap fasteners on middle body panel of touring to secure the door side curtains. The sockets are mounted on the outside of the body.
'26 runabout with rear side curtain placed under the gypsy, with push button snap fasteners on the inside of the rear top iron, sockets inside edge of rear iron.
Sorry, in the last message I got my male and female fasteners mixed up!
What I was asking is, does anyone know of a female fastener that mounts in the rear top bow with a lip to sandwich the side curtain between the top and rear bow. Dan's third picture with "The Fafnir" showing on the ruler has a good picture of the protruding lip. I have not been able to locate female fasteners with this lip. Can anyone help here?
Guess Lang's changed to a flush female socket.
If you PM me, with mailing address, I have but only 4 of those female sockets with the lip and will send them to you to help you out.
Upon further inspection I find I have 3 of the “female spring loaded sockets on the rear top iron” as in Dan’s pic above. And he said they are a pressed fit. But I couldn’t find any top material-to top socket fasteners in either Restoration Supply or Lang’s catalog. The former just has Murphy fasteners. I use these on the ‘14 but won’t on the ‘26. Still don’t know how to fasten this rear top material panel ‘wing’ onto the rear socket. Any suggestions ?
I sent you a PM. I hope you get it!
I notice in an above photo, a roadster with an arm signal flap on the right side. I don't think Ford did that in the U.S. Maybe the car is RHD?
I just purchased some wonderful NOS Ford script side curtains from Bruce Compton in Canada. It doesn't get any better than that!
That '26 runabout isn't RHD. The passenger side curtain had flap installed by Carter's Cut and Cover.
True, the correct factory passenger curtain was flapless, as per this period photo.
But I can attest these flap aren't real good for hand signals. Seated, you stick your arm out only half way, you can't bend the elbow up as you are seated too far back.
I used the flaps for entering the T! Lifted the flap to reach the door latch, as the rod holding the Improved Car curtains keeps it stiff and hard to lift the bottom edges to reach in!