Finally have pretty much my entire speedster done.
Finished the wiring.
Wondering if the wiring looks correct. I followed Rons wiring chart.
The ONLY thing I changed was the ammeter wire. I switched it from one terminal to the other, and switched the battery one with it. This is since I have read most repros are wired backwards.
The VR is not installed so it is not pictured.
Also, note that for the starter terminals there are two regular thick nuts. I have found out I need the thin nuts for the terminals. I will be switching those out. In addition, the starter cable has an inch or two of insulation missing from both ends. I am fixing that now. Just wondering if everything is right connection wise.
Please view photos at attached link. Site is being very finicky with all these photos so I posted them on another site in a larger size too.
1927 T wiring https://imgur.com/gallery/r140XBU
I would be leery about one thing for sure...where the high tension cable runs from the starter switch to the starter I can see that the insulation looks like it is starting to deteriorate. If it should happen to fall apart more and touch the block while trying to start the car;kaboooooom! Why not slip some shrink tubing over it and give it some protection from Murphy's Law? Just a thought...
There was a question about polarity. All Model T's were built with Negative ground. However, either polarity will work. Be advised that the battery's posts are a different size, and the terminals are sized accordingly. If you jam a small terminal onto a large post, you could break an internal connection in the battery, ruining it. That can be a safety hazard, because a spark inside the battery can cause it to explode, with disastrous results.
Otherwise, I concur that the large cables from battery to starter appear to be in questionable shape. The insulation missing is only part of the problem. Over the years, the copper conductors deteriorate - especially if moisture can get to them - and increase the resistance of the cable, thereby slowing the cranking speed. This is the primary reason folks consider going to 12 volt batteries, which is totally un-necessary if the battery, switch, and cables are in good shape.
Overall, the wiring looks good. Neat and well done.
By the way, the nuts on the starter look OK, with the existing terminal. There's plenty of thread on the bolt, for them to grab on to.
These cables have been fine during previous testing and I'm going to try them again now. I'll replace them if there is an issue.
As said, definitely aware of missing insulation, I was planning on getting some electrical tape for now, and when I can afford it, new wires. I fully agree both are pretty beat, but again, they worked well enough previously, just need them for a little while longer
Some black electrical tape on the switch/starter cable will fix that for now. Everything else looks ok.
Try the lites first to check that wiring and the ammeter. If it shows “charge”, reverse the wires. The. Then Brake lite. Then the starter. :-)
(Message edited by Tony_bowker on June 27, 2018)
Looks good from the pictures.
The horn button is non-stock, so don't see where you ran the wires.
There should be 2 black wires running inside the steering column channel. Both wires are hot, the switch provides the contact, the horn body is grounded by the bracket bolts to the block and head.
Like others posted, your battery cable looks like 12v plastic covered cable with bolt on battery connector, wrong for 6 v Ford. You need 00 size cable and fixed connector. The repro ground strap should do the job.
The headlight/generator loom should run up the left side of the firewall, shouldn't be draped to the inside and around the steering column, constant contact with the throttle lever moving could chafe or could cause bind. Clips hold the loom to the firewall to keep all secure.
Remember the T shakes, rolls, wiggles and rattles, any contact of wires, to metal, like the tail lamp wire wrapped around the frame can create a wear spot and short out, causing smoke or fire if un-lucky.!
Thanks Dan for pointing out the wrong cable! I had no idea. I'll be sure to just buy the new starter and battery one tonight.
Are you sure about it supposed to be on the left side firewall? I tried doing that and it wasn't long enough, plus the diagrams didn't say to do it that way, unless I was looking at the wrong ones.
I'll be sure to fasten everything better, just want to see if all the wiring is okay first so I can get that out of the way.
Oh, and as for the horn button, you are correct it's not stock. It has two screw terminals. I connected a wire to each and was able to run one wire down the pipe, but couldn't get the other. Probably should try it from the end without the connector on it... Lol
All I can say is don't forget to put a cotter pin in the timing rod at the timer. There should be one at the steering column end too.
Here is photo of harness on the Improved Car firewall. Plus my '26 runabout wired to Ford methods.
The wire harness clip is under the steering bracket bolt, and when the headlamp loom is pulled across the radiator lower tank (the tank has 3 folding metal clips to hold that loom) to reach the right lamp, the main loom is fastened to a clip on the left hood shelf bolt.
John, my timing is way off so I left out the cotter pins for when I get a battery in to set timing properly.
Dan, those photos are a great help! Thank you!
When you decide to replace the starter cable John be aware that the starter connection bolt is not structurally supported inside. It's pinned and soldered to a buss bar. If you start cranking down the nut with a wrench after changing the cable you are going to twist the bolt and cause yourself more grief. It's the one idiotic part on a Model T. The bolt should have flats on two opposed sides so that a person could atleast put a second wrench on it while tightening the nut with the first wrench. It's a very stupid design that must have taken months to dream up.
Thanks Garnet for the warning. These bolts I finger tightened but when I install new cables I'll be sure to do so again.
Just purchased a new battery and starter cable last night. Will update if everything works or not.
There's a reason for the 2 "thin" brass nuts on the starter cable terminal stud - just carefully tighten the bottom nut snug against the insulator, install cable, start & tighten top nut WHILE holding the cable taught - has to be tighter than "hand tight" !
Installed a battery and turned the switch to dim. Ammeter reads discharge! Dim and bright both work correctly. At first a bulb wasn't working but cleaned up headlight mounting arm ground and they both work great. One is slightly dimmer than the other, but I'm going to see when I get it running if it makes a difference. Also will clean up the arm of the headlight and the bracket.
Horn does not work. I didn't think it would. It was all rust pitted. It could be the button. Of course I stupidly didn't think to bypass the button. Will do it tomorrow.
Starter turns over slowly. This is expected with the old corroded 12v cables. New ones that are 6v on the way.
Battery buzzes coils, mag does not when using starter. Again, need to wires to get it spinning faster and we will see what happens. It will probably work when the engine is running.
Anyways, thanks for the help guys. Have to get those proper terminal nuts too... The starter was rebuilt and has the proper ones.
Any day now you'll be smiling while you clean all the bug splats off the inside of the windshield!
Real men with speedsters clean em off their faces!
Yes, I have a racer with no windscreen. Grasshoppers sting at 65 mph!