I broke the crank on my 1914 engine. It was one of the New Zealand cranks from the late 1990’s. I am going to use a SCAT crank.
I have two cranks available, one with standard journals and one with oversized (1.5”) journals. The latter needs shortened rods and oversized bearing caps, which SCAT can supply.

Has anyone experience with the oversized SCAT crank?

Is it worth the extra $850?

With recent experience fresh in mind, I wonder how available those special parts are if you have to replace a rod out on the road somewhere.

Don't have experience with them, but .250" larger journals has to be stronger.
Do you know what caused the old one to break ?

Tony, I have a model A crank conversion for a T. It is balanced and has been waxed for protection. Main jurnals 1.585
Rod jurnals 1.462. I got this unit from Mark Chaffin and now I have changed my plans to use. Asking $450 including shipping. Since machined it has not been used. This is a very nice crank. Let me know if you have any interest. Sam

Tony

If you like call me and I can answer any question you have on Scat cranks. I have installed many and run them also in my cars.. Be glad to share info . 918 two six 0 2525.

Tony:
I have only installed 1 Scat oversize crankshaft , but have installed 6 standard T size shafts … all were excellent quality … I would give an A+ … counterweights can sometimes hit the dipper tray … have not used the rods … always an optimist...gene french

Sam, sent you a PM.

I have a scat stroked crank in my T and it works great but I think I would be just as happy with a standard scat and not have to do any mods to fit the thing in there.

I pulled the motor and was pleasantly surprised by the very small amount of damage. Rods 1 2 3 and mains 1 2 look and measure just a thou below standard. Of course rod 4 is badly damaged as the break was mainly in the bearing area. I may replace main 3 as the end play is approaching 0.015”.
This is a picture of the broken crank.



With the minimal damage I have decided to go with a new SCAT standard crank.
I have no idea what caused the break. The engine was line bored when the crank was installed in 2003 and it uses one of Les floating transmission shafts.

I did a short block for some one in Michigan, the top of the rods had to be machined, they where hitting the camshaft, Skat said they never heard of that happening before? I had heard that Egge was no longer making pistons for the old Model A conversions so if you want the A crank the only way to go is the Skat conversion? It is a whole lot less work from the old way of machining the block for everything to fit.

I am very sorry that you have experienced this failure of the crankshaft. You have a lot more experience than I, but I am running a SKAT standard crank in my touring. I also have the stock high head. So far it runs smoothly. I would suggest that you check all the main bearings because if the center main is worn, it could likely be in the top of the bearing in the block. Then when you tighten the cap it holds a slight twist in the crankshaft which will eventually cause metal fatigue and a broken crankshaft. So check the alignment of all the bearings in the block.
Norm

I found a standard SCAT crank with Adam in Wisconsin.
Thanks to everyone who responded and offered advise.

I found a standard SCAT crank with Adam in Wisconsin.
Thanks to everyone who responded and offered advise.