After much discussion, with multiple parties, and after taking many measurements, it was decided that in order to accommodate for my considerable girth, the steering column would have to be shortened 8 inches. Has anyone did this work before? I would like some tips on how to accomplish this. Car is a 1916 roadster. Thank you for your consideration.

Kent, have you considered a good diet and exercise program? That might be less trouble and better for your health.

Been there done that!

Before I bought my present Model T, I asked the previous owner, that restored the car, if he would recommend my purchase. He told me to sit in it first. I asked why that would be important. He told me the seat did not move back and he sold it because he could not sit behind the wheel. I bought it, but the first few years that steering wheel made a black spot on my shirt every tiime I drove it. Now that I'm 80 pounds lighter, I fit better and feel better. The secret to losing weight - don't eat anything white.

Because of the design of my car I cut 10 inches. However it was done for design, not what your after. So the only help I can be is to say I took the quadrent off and cut the steering tube down the need amount and reinstalled the quadrent, no problem there. As for the steering shaft, I cut in two pieces, made a bend with a steering u-joint and continued down. Personally I would not want to distroy a collum just as a diet program. Not putting you down sir, I too have been told to loose 100 pounds.
But to answer your question, I see no reason you can't cut it down. You just have to cut the likage rods and redrill the little pin holes for the throttle and advance links. If I was going to do this I would make my cut close to the steering wheel end where your twist stress is not as great. Belevel there you will reweld to get a deep weld and even then weld a casing around that to be damned sure. OR I'm wondering if you could cut the steering gear flange off the top end, cut the shaft and reweld flange to shaft.

Tyrone, the twist stress is the same the whole length of the shaft.
(Are there any other cars with the reduction gear right up at the steering wheel? One of Henry's oddest ideas..)

Kent, A machinist friend perhaps can make a new taper, key groove and thread futher up at the bottom end of the shaft. The steering bracket bushing would then move to a new unworn part of the shaft.

Did that shortening on a column for my clone '09 mother-in-law runabout.

The body seat was too close to the late steering gear, so just removed the quadrant, and cut off 2". Used replica brass quadrant and brass cover on a polished used 5:1 gear case. Turned out pretty and looks early, but isn't Guess I could have added brass rivet heads to the underside of the gear case...but not many could tell that detail of my cloned replica runabout.

Then took the steering shaft of a super welder, and he cut off that amount, aligned and welded it back. Align the key way at the end with the 'web' protrusion at the top edge of the triangle pinion end, that puts the later shaft in the same index that the longer pinion post needs to fit into the gear case to prevent over-lock turns.


cut off column laying on seat


After trimming, fit was fine

I had a similar challenge except I needed to lengthen the shaft about 10 inches, but not the comumn. I cut the standard shaft inside the column, welded in a rod of the same diameter and then slid a tube over the entire extended area. Brazed at both ends and the result is extra strength as well as torsional stiffness. See my profile for car.
Now I am thinking of shortening the column/shaft on my '25 C-cab...the steering has always been too close and uncomfortable...even with normal weight (me).