Perhaps A Different Coil Tuning Hammer?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2010: Perhaps A Different Coil Tuning Hammer?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 - 08:34 am:

This hammer was recently found in an antique shop. The similarity to the other coil tuning hammer makes me wonder if that could have been the intended purpose of this hammer. The handle is almost the same length. The slight bend suggests that someone hit something very hard at one time. The repro hammer weighs 5 ounces and this hammer weighs 11 ounces. Has anyone ever seen one like this one or might know the original purpose for this hammer? There is one smaller and similar that is often found with fire alarm boxes to break the glass in case of fire. That hammer has a ring on the end and a chain attached. This hammer does not have the hole for a ring.

Hammer


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Humble on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 - 09:45 am:

James,
The coil hammer has a hammer head to tap the lower coil bridge to bend it up and the claw end to bend it down. There is not much room at the rear of the coil points to hit and it does not take much of a wack to do the job so for all those reasons I do not think the hammer in the right is for coil points. But it being small, made of all metal, and nickle plated or stainless steel, would make me think it is a medical or dental hammer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 - 09:57 am:

Just a note - while the claw on the rear of the coil hammer is indeed for bending up the rear of the coil point vibrator - I strongly suggest you not use that end of the hammer for that purpose. You will be pulling up very hard on bolts with very small heads inside the coil box and the wood box top is already somewhat frail with age. If the bolt heads inside were large then it would be OK but they are rather tiny carriage bolts with very small heads. It takes substantially less effort to reduce the coil operating current by simply placing a screwdriver or small blunt punch on the front edge of the point foot and tapping down with the same hammer against the end of the punch or screwdriver handle. By always applying force down against the coil top you do not pull the bolts through the top wood and the coil will last a lot longer and you won't be loosening the bolts as you do when you pry up. If you ever try it you will discover that it takes way way less of a blow to the front edge of the point vibrator mounting foot to make a large reduction in the coil current when compared to the rather large amount of leverage you must apply to the rear when prying up to get that same amount of reduction in operate current. A very lite tap on the front edge of the mounting foot will lower the current a large amount so tap very lightly at first. The mounting feet of the vibrator are very large and will spread the hammer blow force over a very wide area and as I said - the hammer blow is soft compared to the prying force. Try it.


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