Can anyone provide the dimensions of a stand for storage of T Engine.

Thanks

Don

Here is one I just made for storage. Had some wasted time







Well, I saw this old magazine article on making a T engine stand from iron pipe...so...off to Lowe's with a shopping list of lengths. Had some of the fittings, the casters, so needed a few things.

Used an old crankcase as a guide to get the posts right, used bolts as pins for the crank arm holes and eels for the front of the pan to fit level too. Roll pins at each fitting to keep the threaded fitting from spinning out of alignment when the heavy engine is resting on the stand.

But..if you add up the galvanized pipes the $ cost, less labor of course, was more than the nifty folding stand on casters that Lang's sells...go figure.

Guess all that pipe is now from China...maybe just plain black iron pipe parts are cheaper...but the shiny finish looks nicer

Thanks. This looks great!

The engine pan made of pipes is a very good idea, but it calls for expensive pipe cutting and pipe threading tools. I made an engine stand using 2 x 4's about waist high with the side rails being the same distance apart as the rails of the chassis and the front cross piece the same distance below the rails as the front cross piece on the T. The rear end needs no support as support is provided by the motor mount ears on the pan, but there should be horizontal leg supports on all sides about 12" from the gound. It can be assembled using 3" deck screws. Wheels are optional. I use mine to work on my engine as well. Jim Patrick

I saw a nice T engine stand for $150 on Craigs List Kalamazoo, MI. Can rotate engine and even be used to run engine on. Would be interested but just built myself one.

Gary

Jim

That's a good way too with 2x4's. Have done serveral storage stands out of wood framing too. Used 2x4 members and 4x4 uprights. But all that big lumber is bulky.

And the problem I found is the big wood frame gets in the way of the V legs of my engine hosit. I had to tip the wooden stand to get the lift to fit up.

The little size of the pipe version works best, and by the way, the stand made of pipe is all store stock lengths, no pipe cutting or threaded was done...




Little cloudy pic, but wooden stand painted gray is on the far lower right.

Dan, is the one you made out of 1-1/4" pipe like the drawing? It is hard to tell from the picture.

Doug

I'm not a plumber, so don't know! The pipes measure little over 1" outer, so probably 3/4" id iron pipe, plenty strong to store a T engine on.

Used the magazine article on the dolly as my pattern. Only adjustments were to the length of the pipes. The store only had stock lengths, so I used them.

Here's my list: 1 --- 24" cross pipe
2 --- 10" pipes for the end beam
2 --- 12" uprights
3 --- 8" legs
1 --- 6" front riser for the pan nose. Then the T's, 90 elbows, floorplates, casters and ells, roll pins, a little pipe wrenching... and a place to store that rusted out pan

Dan, I didn't think about the legs of an engine hoist. I must have a monster of a hoist because the v legs have no problem rolling on each side of my stand. Also, the upper crane portion extends out so the legs don't have to go all the way under. I rescued it from our railcar maintenance shop when our mechanic figured it was time to get a new one. I had the hydraulic cylinder rebuilt and ended up with a great, but massive engine hoist.

Here are a couple of pages from the pipe section of the Mcmaster Carr catalog on the proper way to select pipe sizes. Jim Patrick

Well, here is my creation, works for a A,B,C or T. This one has a C engine on it. Note that the front mount is not welded to the tubing, and note the adapters on the rear mounts.

I have the front part of a TT frame that would make a good engine stand. I would sell it cheap or trade it for some T parts. Dave

My engine frame sits nicely in between my crane's wedged outriggers. I measured things out foist so it would !!

Garnet

I have a hevy bult wooden stand that i brought my rebuld home in and it will not move easly in transport! Moble,I think the pictured 3 wheeler [always sits levle/flat/solid and i also like the welded constriction because if a pipe thread is cut to deep there is little iron holding and you dont have a clue!Bud.

I made a motor stand out of 2x4's and a 2'x4' piece of 3/4" plywood left over from a wheel press project. My purpose was a bit different. I wanted a stand that was very strong but also rather light and with lots of side clearance so that I could get at pan bolts and things while the motor was on the stand. I also wanted the stand to be fastened to the motor so that I could pick the motor and stand both up by a spark plug mounted hoist ring and then put the motor in the back of a truck with stand still attached. Finally I wanted it strong enough that I could put casters on the corners and roll it around to get it out of the way. I built several of them for some motors I had that I wanted to keep. I only put casters on one of the stands. If you are interested in building one - I just posted the plans for it in Fun Projects document library. There is a complete bill of materials list so you can see what you need and hopefully get everything in one trip to Menard's or Home Depot or whatever. You might want to omit the wing nuts if you only want to sit the motor on the stand rather than have the stand get picked up with the motor. There are simpler designs than this but it works if you are interested in building it.