I will be repairing some minor oil leaks this winter on our 27 T - I know exactly what is going to happen too - I will start to clean up the engine compartment and end up pulling the engine out to give it a good scrubbing and fresh coat of paint as well - does amyone make an adaptor plate so that I can use my regular engine stand?
I think most of the larger vendors have one. I bought one from Mac's, but I think Snyder's, Bob's, Lang's, and Chaffin's might have one.
I use a Shucks - O'Reilly engine stand, and to mount a T engine I use two long bolts into the inlet water threaded holes on the side of the block. I use two L shaped threaded rods fastened onto the engine pan rail holes. These bolts and L shaped rods are then secured to the ordinary engine stand slotted arms with any necessary washers and spacers. Works for me.
Greg ; with this one,you canput the whole engine together even the starter.You can turn them up side down an all between
this is the 1 I made up a while back.A peice of flat iron,a peice of angle and 2 bolts and a few minutes.Drill the large peice of flat iron to bolt to your engine stand.
Mack emailed me that picture a couple of years ago and I copied his adapter. It works very well. When I made it I didn't drill the water pipe holes until I had the pins welded in place. Then I just set it on a block and marked where the holes should be, then drilled them. It works super.
Snyders has this one for 85.00
Mack and Ed , how do you turn the middle main bearing nut ????
There is just enough room to get to that nut by reaching in between the motor block and the mounting plate. You have to have good clean threads on the bolt and nut so the nut spins on freely.
To tighten them, I have the original Z wrench for the square head on the main bolt and have a 3/4" deep well socket (3/8" drive) that I cut off to fit the nut in the space provided. I use a breaker bar to hold the socket and then tighten by turning the main bolt.