Is there any reason this wont work?

The idea stemed from 2 busted manifolds that had useable threads.I aint decided yet if I want to join the halves back together cosmeticaly or leave them seperate.My thinking is to leave them seperate to help convey heat away instead of it conveying along the length of the manifold.I blocked off the ends of the busted manifold,cut a slot in the front section,cut the end off another manifold and welded it in.
I know the pipe going to the front manifold will require some bending and perhaps cutting and inserting a pie cut into it to make it work.But this is supposed to be a poor mans split manifold.So give me your opionions.

I don't see why it won't work!

Mack,

It is VERY NICELY DONE! And it will work. On a lazy T engine it will probably work fine and you'll feel the difference.

On a more powerful four, it will be the exhaust equivalent of siamesed intake ports unless you have a two-up/two-down crankshaft and a cam to go with it and those pieces wouldn't be inexpensive at all.

Again Mack, NICE JOB!

Seth

Mack, thats cool and don't see why it won't work. Is there room under the front one for the rear clamp?

I'll be the party pooper. Scrap it and make a set of headers. If you're going to that much trouble, might as well use smooth pipe and keep the flow out of those craters inside the manifold.

But a very nice looking attempt none the less.

Yea,there is room for the clamp.Camera angle dont show it.
I was a little nervous about showing this on here but I feel a little better now.I was thinking the welds dont look good enough or whatever.
This started from a manifold I tried to straighten years ago and it broke in the middle.I didnt chunk it as the threads were good.
I found another busted 1 with good threads and I have set around and played with manifolds allweekend until I came up with this.
Took about 6 hours.
And it was welded useing my wirefeed on max setting.With alot of grinding afterwords.Before I end capped the front section I used a die grinder to make sure the pathway was clear of all mess from the welding of the threaded piece that would cause a blockage. I aint sure if the end cap is on the front 1 in that 1 picture but it is capped.


Would you leave them seperate or reattach them useing the curved section from another bad manifold to make it look and fit up like a 1 piece unit?

Wow, dual exhaust on a T!

Ken I studied headers on T engines,what few photos I could find,and I aint quite understood how they get a good seal to the block.
And I just wanted 2 exhaust pipes because I still would like to route them to the full rear of the frame of the speedster.
But yes,I do understand this is a good bit of trouble for not as much gain.But I have a "chairty" job,as in aint gittin paid cause he got no money, a lawnmower that belongs to a friend,tore apart in my shop bay and I aint got room to walk hardly.So till it gits gone,I cant git back on any of my bigger projects.Yep,this is another mini project for the speedster.I aint gona mention the next 1 till I git this 1 ready for the ready for use parts shelf.

Mack,

If your speedster is going to be close to stock compression, this will make more difference than you think. The log manifold with one pipe on a stocker is terrible. Anything you can do to reduce exhaust backpressure makes a world of difference, even with the abrupt turns.

Good luck with your speedster project. I like what you've done and when it works as well as I say, you can be proud that it was a homespun, not bought, modification.

That's what speedsters are all about.

Seth

I'll second what Seth said, at the very least the throttle response will be noticeably faster. You might even be able to break 25 HP! Henry would be spinning in his grave.

Let Henry spin. He deserves to be spun around, at the very least.

Mack - What a great and original "hop-up" item for a speedster! Can't wait to see what you've got dreamed up for your next original hop-up item!

I am wondering tho', if you leave the two manifold sections completely separate, how will you hold the one section tight against the #2 exhaust port?

Sure makes me wonder how that speedster of yours will sound with that "North Carolina exhaust" system! I sure remember from high school days, what a split manifold does for the sound of an old worn-out Chev***et stovebolt six! Ha,ha,...harold

I love it. That goes directly to the heart of a traditional budget speedster. It may not be optimum, but it is good old shadetree engineering and you will have the only one around. It will draw a crown any time and should work well, sound terrific.

Promise to show us the finished product.

"North Carolina exhaust" - awesome!

Mack,

If you go with true duals (no "H" pipe between each pipe) it should sound like two Johnny Poppers drag racing and neither can get the edge on the other.

Smittys (glass packs) all the way!

Seth

Hell, just leave the pipes off and run it like it is. Straight out the side.


ON SECOND THOUGHT, IT MAY BE TO MUCH.

(but you should fire it up that way once, just in the interest of science, with video rolling, wife not home)

I like it! And for the same reasons Erich said!

I like that idea too!

Ken where does the intake manifold go?
Norm

Norman, on the block! You left the door open, I had to say it!

LOVE IT!!!!

1 against and everyone else likes it. I like different stuff and innovations. Plus it looks like it's period correct. I think it will flow fine. With the manifold open before welding up the end caps it could be cleaned up on the inside to have a little smoother flow.

Mack, what you have done is make a crude replication of the "Milesbuilt" dual exhaust manifold that Chaffins Garage makes and markets. The only difference between yours and theirs, besides the obvious difference of having one smooth casting, is that their manifold joins cyl. 1 and 4, separate from cyl. 2 and 3.

Well, it looks like we have naysayer #2. Texans must be the naysayers today.

The obvious difference to me is that Mack made it and didn't buy anything from someone.

True that connecting #1 and #4 together and likewise #2 and #3 would be better for flow.

No big hairy deal. It's attached to a tractor engine and he did it himself!

Seth

Kenny

Actually the insides of those iron exhaust manifolds aren't too bad, the real area needing any clean up that would help the most would be at the ports only anyway....but 22-25hp, ?? could it help a lot?

view from my cut-away

I'm with Seth.

My vote too!

Here's a Laurel speedster exhaust, sure it is an OHV, but note the 2 ports for exhaust like Mack has done......nifty Mack

Thanks folkes.I will finish up this thing tommorow and paint it.And lay it up for the finished engine.All the parts are in the big shop so it should be going together sometime before spring.:>0
I must admit,I cant see haveing a shop full of tools and buying everything but the dream with the lexan.This is what the hobby is to me.To fiqure and fabricate.and have fun doing it.Does alot of good for the ole brain.
Ken,if you have some more photos of the headers,email them to me.I am curious about them.I aint sure I would want to go that route but it is worth learning more about for future reference.

Another advantage to your exhaust system Mack, is that when you run your speedster hoodless to show off your handiwork, no one in their right mind will ask you if you have a hopped-up Pinto engine in there.

Like they very well might if you had an equal-length steel tube header.

Being cool is often better than going fast. It is certainly safer, especially in a T.

Seth

Seth, I give Mack an A+ for effort. I didn't know he was going to use them on a tractor !!! In that case crudeness isn't a factor at all. Plus, if he breaks a crank and ever wants to cut the block in half and build two 2 cylinder motors, he'll have that part of the engine, done !

Now we need to see a "North Carolina high volume intake" to go with that.

Brainstorm.....If you want 1+4 and 2+3 you could use the vaporizer manifold, "customize" it to exhaust #1+4. Then use the center section of regular T manifold to exhaust #2+3.

NO, that would get in the way of the intake......

Mack, I think that is a great idea. Reminds me of the split manifolds on Ford and Chevy sixes back in the day. I am very curious as to what that is going to sound like. I vote for straight pipes. Dave

I have a couple rough vaporizer manifolds and I played with them to.This just looked easyer.it is going on my speedster,not a tractor!
It will sound like a tractor.
The best 6 cylinder I ever heard was a 223 ford with a piece of 6 inch well caseing from about the manifold back to the bumper.How he did it I dont know because the poor man died in a church van wreck before I ever got to see how he did it.
But it was funny as heck to watch a 75 year old man in a old ford truck doing a burn out with a well caseing for a exhuast.Sounded MUCH meaner than it really was.

"Tractor" was sarcasm. I apologize for the confusion. Engines that produce some 10 horsepower per liter I consider "tractor" engines, regardless of what they are used in.

Mack, that looks good and should work fine,we used to do the same thing on six cylinder Chevy manifolds as in the fifties there were not any to be had, so you had to make your own,great job.
Rick

Mack, you are doing what I have planned for my Funster only I am going to do what you did on #3 & #4 and make a second manifold like the first and put it on upside down on #1 & #2 and run the pipe up,around and back so it would look kind of like V twin motorcycle exhaust. I am also going to try a vaporizer intake with either a modern Kohler carb or a motocycle carb as a side draft, don't know how it will work but I am having fun with it.One of my favorite saying is "If it's stupid but it works it's not stupid". Dennis

Mack,
That's the kind of innovation that makes Model T ownership so much fun. Good job!

Here's another homemade set-up. The log intake manifold is made from a section of steel fencepost. The carbs are 1930s 1-BBL Zeniths from a marine engine.

Dennis your carb ideas are similar to what I am leaning towards.I have a Nikki carb that I have no idea what it is for but it is slightly bigger than a Kohler carb and it appears to me that it may would work similar.But I aint so sure about it.I perfer T parts on a T.So Other ideas are on the table as well.

Just another version of pipes and intake on this speedster....

Seeing these different setups and intake manifolds designed for clearance, it got me to wondering. Are there any period correct side draft carburetors' used on either stock or OHV Model T's?

Jim

Jim,
A pair of Holley NHs fits the bill!
Allan from downunder

A North carolina intake is going to be much more difficult with the guidelines i set for myself in doing this type stuff.Saying that after a few hours of playing with parts.

Very cool Mack!

I have always toyed with the idea of using a vaporizer exhaust manifold and, in addition to the regular exhaust outlet, putting a plate over the vaporizer area and having another pipe come out of that plate. Hope that made some sense.

The intake is then mounted above the exhaust manifold as a downdraft.

This kind of off topic here;
Other than being loud, would any harm be done to the engine if you ran it with no exhaust manifold at all.
Howard

Warped valves, obnoxious sound, some engines run better with a little back pressure.