O.K. I decided to remove the transmission to check the discs and to free them up. I have the hogs head off...........now what?
I bought two books and neither one tells me how to remove the transmission from the engine. Do I need to remove the entire tranny to separate the discs, clean them up and reinstall?
How do my magneto magnets look?
You need to add the Ford Service Manual to your book library. All the steps plus photos are shown in the service book for the T,
Yes, you have to remove the engine assembly from the car, the Model T engine is a powerplant with int regal transmission and flywheel.
The engine needs to be out of the car, and the engine pan removed too. Then you can unbolt the transmision from the engine. It is easiest with the engine turned nose down.
To remove the transmission assembly,(from the flywheel to the tail) the engine has to come out of the car. The pan must be removed from the engine block and then the transmission unbolted from the crankshaft. The flywheel/transmission assembly can then be removed and disassembled.
Looks like a three-for-one answer - I must be the slowest typer ...
As you can probably tell I don't know how to post pictures. I tried and a message came back that they were too large.
No way to dissassemble the tranny while in the car?
No, there is no way to take the tranny off while in the car.
The oil pan and engine crankcase are all one stamped piece. The hogs head (where the pedal are) is the only removable portion of the transmission while still bolted in the car other than the bands.
Dan, I have the "Model T Ford Service manual" (small brown book) and "The Model T Ford Transmission" manual (bigger green book) I just didn't realize that I had to remove the engine/transmission assembly to tear down the transmission enough to separate the sticking discs.
Now I'm dissapointed! I thought I was almost there!!!!!
Thanks DAn, Royce, Bob, and William. Appreciate your wisdom!
Keep in mind what I heard in my early years from a longtime Buick man:
"You have to drop the rearend on a danged Ford, just to lift the radiator cap."
It's almost true.
It's only about 2 hours to remove the engine from the car. Once out take off the hog's head then the pan. turn the engine so the front is down and you can work on the clutch with out removing the transmission from the engine.
If you want to talk please send me a private message and I will be glad to discuss how to do this. It is not hard.
You don't need to remove the rear axle assembly, but you will need to remove the radiator, and steering column and the entire engine/transmission assembly.
Depending on how thorough a job of overhauling the transmission you want to do, you will need to stand the engine nose down (all this can be done with an engine stand made to rotate the engine upside down right side up and on end).
Then you can remove the 6 special bolts which are wired together and pull off the drive plate with the spring. You can now get at the clutch disks. You can also get to the drums and gears by removing a bolt which is wired in on the clutch drum and use a special puller to remove it and the woodruff key.
If you want to work on the magnets and magneto ring, you will need to remove the 4 bolts which bolt the flywheel to the crankcase. This will give you access also to the main transmission shaft.
The amount of things to remove will depend on how thorough a job you intend to do, and how much wear is on the existing parts which you will need to examine when you get it apart. Better to do more work when you get it apart, than to not do something that will need to be done soon requiring disassembly again.
Buy the Ford service manual and the club book "Transmission" and follow the instructions for work and clearances for the individual parts.
Timely subject, I was about to ask the same thing this morning, thanks!
(my new library of old books just got ordered this morning.)
What additional advice could anyone give me in regard to the same subject, but whose engine(s) are stuck and have a nice coating of crusty rust?
Does anything necessarily need to be able to "turn" to safely extract the transmission? (safe being a relative term to what condition it is under that rust!)
If I can remove the trans as a single unit, I'll likely dunk it in a vat of homebrew penetrant. (ATF and acetone)
I would try it the same way, unless the motor has been outdoors exposed for years, the 'stuck' parts could be the rotating pistons or the crank, or the transmission. You should be able to free the flywheel/transmission assembly from the rear of the crankshaft by removing the 4 bolts there, then use methods to release metal parts stuck together as you find them.
Engine mounted on engine stand for easier handling in removing the trans.
Now the engine is apart into the smaller pieces for redo.
Very good pictures, Dan.
I just went through removing the tranny from a "stuck" engine. I unbolted the rod caps and was able to turn the crank enough to reach all 4 flywheel bolts. The engine had sat outside in the weather for several years without a head. Cast iron pistons + cast iron block + rain & snow = very stuck! I put the acetone/ATF mixture in the cylinders (none leaked past the pistons) and let it sit for 6 months until I finally got around to that project. After all that time, it still had the ATF mixture in the upper parts of the cylinders. I got the tranny and flywheel off and removed the crankshaft. Then I took a wooden 1 x 2 and a ball peen hammer and knocked the pistons out. They all came out without breaking anything (except the first couple of 1 x 2's).
I had been using the acetone/ATF mixture in a squirt can for months since reading about it here, and I've been impressed with it. But not nearly as impressed as I am now!
By the way, the bottom end of that engine is fine. When I removed the drain plug from the crankcase, first lots of nasty water and then a little nasty oil came out. I expected the worst of course, but there was a nice coating of oil on everything and no rust.
Paul, if you don't have any way of working on your engine, back side up, please see the following thread. It is bolted to the stand with four of the 3/8" fine thread pan bolts and cstle nuts. www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/152658.html