I purchased a set of oil pan bolts for my 19 engine and it has me wondering where some of said bolts go
it came with
-22 9/16 bolts about 1 1/2 inches long with holes in the ends for cotter pins
-2 9/16 bolts about 1 3/8 inches long
-7 9/16 bolts about 1 inch long
-9 lock washers
22 cotter pins

I want to put the oil pan on, but I'm not completely sure which bolts go where
and rather than do it now and have to go through it again if I'm wrong I'm asking if someone has some sort of guide or can tell me where they go.
Much thanks to any input
-alex

The one under the timer goes threads down! Bud.

Alex

Here is a front view showing some placement,



The bulk of them go around the base of the block, note the boss hight around the bolt holes in the block or front plate as your length guide. Test fit each to line up the cotter, the lockwashers go at the Univ plate and some at the front plate....

(3) 9/16" x 1" bolts & lockwashers go under starter on driver's side into the three threaded holes in the hogshead.
(1) 9/16" x 1" bolt & lock washer goes in pan under timing gear side cover.
(3) 9/16" x 1" bolts goes in timing gear cover.
(2) 9/16" x 1 3/8" bolts & lockwashers goes on each side of crankshaft.
(22) 9/16" x 1 1/2" bolts, castle nuts and cotter pins are used in the through holes to secure the block and hogshead to the oil pan. The bolts are all inserted from the bottom of the oil pan with the castle nut and cotter pin on the top. Except for the one under the timer, which the bolt goes in from the top with the castle nut on the bottom.
I believe you should have a couple of 9/16" x 1 1/2" or 1 3/8" bolts without holes for the two rearmost holes in the hogshead on each side of the fourth bearing.

You may find slight variations in the length of the pan bolts or in the position of the cotter key holes, which may necessitate moving them around, if you find the hole is too high or too low to be secured by a cotter key. The reason for this is because the corner braces under each side of the pan at the junction of the block and the hogshead require (6) longer bolts (4 on the passenger side brace and 2 on the driver's side brace). At the through holes of these two braces, it requires slightly longer bolts or bolts with the holes closer to the ends. If you have a bolt through one of these braces and you cannot tighten the castle nut tight enough to fully expose the hole, then trade it for a bolt in which the hole is above the castle nut grooves. Before installing the pan bolts, line them up to see if you don't see slight variations in the position of the cotter key holes. If you do, the longer ones go in at the braces.

Jim Patrick

Stop and think where bolts have to go. There can only be one way! If the bolt is too long put a shorter one in. If you are going into a blind hole, make sure you know whether the threads are fine or coarse. If you are still unsure, use a thread gauge. A set of taps and dies can also be a help in identifying stuff. The bottom line is, think about what you are doing. I wouldn't trust these reproduction businesses, but what they offer is probably a start if you don't have any bolts at all. Back to blind holes. If you are unsure of the depth, stick in a piece of bailing wire, and measure it to determine the length of the bolt you will need.

Oops. Sorry. I wasn't thinking and went by Alexander's post that the the oil pan bolts are 9/16", which is not the case. They are all 3/8" - 24 SAE (fine thread). The only concern you have when installing them is the length and to not thread them into a wrong sized hole or one with N.C. threads.

When installing bolts that enter the crankcase, such as the two 3/8"-24 x 1" on the driver's side under the starter on each side of the motor mount, you should put somes RTV sealant, such as "The Right Stuff" on the threads of the bolts to keep the oil from creeping down the threads through capillary action and out onto the ground (for a good bond, thoroughly clean the oil out of the threads first)

This should also be done to the bolts securing the oil pan bottom inspection panel in place since they enter the crankcase and can also develop dripping oil leaks at each bolt through capillary action. Jim Patrick