An elementary question, I know, but to remove the transmission, must the pan be removed from the block or can it be removed by removing the hogshead?
You must remove the pan from the engine transmission magneto assembly before removing the transmission. You need to remove the assembly from the car first.
If you haven't done so I suggest purchasing the Model T Ford Manual.
I have the overhaul manual, but the question I am asking was not covered or I missed it. I was simply hoping for a shortcut since all I'm doing is replacing a drum. Thanks for the reply.
Depending on what you are going to do! You will have/or should remove the engine from the frame.
Drain the oil first. Then remove engine, remove the Hogs head, then the pan, use a lift and chain then unlace the four tranny bolts,(it is heavy) then the tranny. I went to Tractor supply and bought lifting loops and enough chain to make a lift device to use on the shop crane. Now what do you have in mind. At his point you will have removed the three bands. Check for conditin, as they may need relinning.
I have to say that when working around the fly wheel and magneto ring be real careful, somewhere between the magneto ring and the flywheel it bit my middle finger, not real bad but went to the walk in care and they could not do anything as it had been to many hours since it happened, however it did heal up, people would ask what happened to the MIDDLE finger, well it got bit by the tranny.
Have fun with the transmission. Do a careful examine, one piece at a time, as it is IMPORTANT that it be perfect to have a good operating car.
My 1919 Tranny works and sounds much different than the 1917 Depoot Hack tranny, and they were gone thru a piece at a time.
Note to John Little/ see above post
Dang my fingers are quicker then my mind, sorry John I screwed up the post
Like Bill is saying: the entire engine/transmission must come out of the car. You cannot replace a drum with the engine still in the car.
The engine is already out and on a stand. Just don't want to unbolt more than the job requires. If it requires pan removal, fine. I have never removed "just the transmission" and simply wanting to save a little time. The transmission does not require a total rebuild- that has already been done a few years back by the former owner- I just need to replace the cracked reverse drum before it blows.
I simply don't want to unbolt more than the job requires.
Well, since it's out of the car, you need to take off the inspection plate on the hogs head and remove the nuts, washers and springs from the bands. Then remove the bendix cover AND bendix if you have a starter on your car. Next unbolt the starter from the hogs head. You can then unbolt the hogs head and remove that. Then unbolt the engine pan from the motor. At that point, you can refer to the service manual as you will be removing the drive plate with spring, support and pin, the clutch discs, disc drum, and all three transmission drums since the reverse is the one closest to the flywheel. Basically, you are removing everything except the three sets of triple gears, the flywheel, the magnets and the coil ring.
The rest of the transmission will still be bolted to the engine at this point.
Just a point to consider: how badly cracked is it? It is probably the least used of the three, unless you use it to help stop.
John, in theory it could be done. Just remove the four flywheel bolts and back off the flywheel and transmission just enough to clear the crank flange and lift it out.
I see the following problems doing it that way:
1. The four flywheel bolts would be difficult to get at.
2. There may not be enough room in the pan to back out the flywheel to clear the crank flange.
3. On reassembly you might need to reposition the pan on the block anyway so the ball cap lines up.
Considering its so easy to remove the engine to pan bolts and just remove the pan, I don't see why you would want to do it any other way.
Your middle finger got bit by a tranny? What part of town were you in?