I am getting ready to install the newly rebuilt engine in the speedster and was thinking about removing the magnets and replacing with oil slingers. I see that Langs has two styles, one is half the price than the other, does anyone have any experience with these slingers and is it a good idea overall??

I used 4 magnets at 90 degrees from each other welded little pieces of tube to them for the screws, put the spools back where they belong and have sturdy slingers and lightened up the flywheel considerably

Having my engine/trans rebuilt by a reputable T mechanic. Asked about slingers as engine didn't have magnets, etc. He said he never uses them as they are not neccessary. The starter ring gear throws all the oil needed. That was good news to me as I figger they are just something more to come loose. It has happened.

Oiling has always been an issue for the T. I know the magnets throw off a lot of oil. I would have to wonder if anything less is enough.

Martin, reserch the subject of slingers on here. About a couple months ago there was a lenghty talk about them. It was about a guys slingers that came apart. I have used the cheaper type sold by Langs and have not had any trouble. I am currently building a gentlemans speedster using the heavier TT frame with a cross country tour in mind. In it I am using the cheaper slingers.

I've been using slingers for near 100K miles that I made from cheap 3/4" aly angle from the local hardware.

rdr

I should have been more clear above. I am wondering if just the ring gear is enough.

Erich, I would think even a bare flywheel would throw enough oil to lube the engine at a minimim.My way of thinking is the stream of oil the flywheel w or w/o the ring gear would just be a smooth stream being thrown. I personally think you need some device such as slingers, the magnets, the mag spindles with bolts to cause a violent throwing of the oil to get it up to the front of the engine.

The loos of the weight is not always easy to deal with at real low engine speeds.
I would install and EXTRA ring gear for weight and forget the power robbing slingers.

I agreee with Gary White's mechanic. You do not need them....what is needed is a good outside oiler. The old Ford Faithful combination inspection cover/oiler works good in conjunction with a 3/8" oil line run to a fitting up front in the pan. Using a mag. post oiler with a 1/4" oil line attached to a hollow front pan stud will not deliver sufficient oil up front.
Adding oil slingers is a waste of money and is something else to break or come loose.
If a flywheel with magnets does not provide sufficient oil up front.....what makes you think "slingers" will do a better job?
The high volume outside oiler that Texas T sells is the best bang for the $$$ and will supply more than enough oil for use with dippers.

I have been running our 13 touring with only a ring gear on the flywheel for 12 yrs. with no bearing problems. No shim removal or bearing adjustments required to date. While rebuilding my engine 12 yrs. ago, I enlarged the mag. post hole to accept a threaded 3/4" pipe nipple extending inside to act as a scoop/oil pickup.
On top side, I added an elbow and reduced down to a 1/2" copper line that runs to the front side of the pan connected to a 1/2" elbow which is brazed to the pan. I know it's flowing oil because........when the engine is warm.....you cannot keep your hand on the 1/2" oil line.

I have a friend's 13 engine all apart that had a 1/4" mag. post oiler and was running magnets on the flywheel. The pan is full of babbet!
The engine will go back together with a SCAT crankshaft and Texas high volume outside oiler among other goodies. Be assured, you will never catch me using any usless oil slingers. In my opinion, both magnets and slinger do a better job making oil foam vice providing sufficient lubrication for an engine to survive.

"The old Ford Faithful combination inspection cover/oiler works good in conjunction with a 3/8" oil line run to a fitting up front in the pan"

Les,

Can you provide a photo of this arrangement, particularly at the transmission cover end ?

I used the Texas T parts kit which has the paddles braced at the corners. The ones without bracing are known to break off.
However, the screws supplied with the kit are the wrong size for the original ring gear. I used 6 x 1.5mm high tensile screws instead which self lock.
Very happy with the end result.
I've seen what happens when a magnet breaks off - that's why I don't use them.

My T had the magnets, etc. removed previously but they left about 6 bobbins to act as oil slingers. 2 were OK but the others were mmissing or in varioius stages of destruction. On tear down I found what appeared to be a rivet from one of the drums loose in the bottom along with pieces of bobbin, babbit, and other junk. The loose parts had jammed the oil funnel on the internal oil line nearly closed making it useless.