Getting an accurate date

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2010: Getting an accurate date
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ART DONLEY on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:15 pm:

I purchased a t and know the motor has a number stamped on it. How or where would you go/use this number to find the true date of manufacture?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:18 pm:

Post the number here. Leave off the last few digits if you're concerned about privacy. You'll have your answer in under 5 minutes.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adrian Whiteman, New Zealand on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:18 pm:

Hi Art,
Well, you can post the number here and the guys in the know can give you the date (down to the perhaps the month or day it was made).

Or you can follow this link: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/sernos.htm

Cheers
Adrian


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Berch on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:20 pm:

Art this is the one I use. Special thanks to the Texoma T group.

http://www.texomats.com/engine_sn_decoder


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Carter on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:25 pm:

Assuming that it wasn't re-stamped, the motor number tells the date the motor was made. The car would have been assembled sometime after (usually soon, but not necessarily). However it is common to have the motor replaced over the years. If you are concerned about that, look to see if the body and chassis parts correspond to the motor number. If you'd like, you can post pictures here for folks to review.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth Harbuck - Shreveport, LA on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:27 pm:

Art,

Go to www.mtfca.com

Click on "Model T Encyclopedia"

At the top of the page that loads, click on the bar at the top (Encyclopedia Menu)

When the new page loads, click on "Model T Ford Serial Numbers, 1908 - 1941"

This will tell you when the engine in your car was completed.

Seth


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ART DONLEY on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 05:39 pm:

Thanks everyone. I don't have the number with me but I will post it tommorrow.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ART DONLEY on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 07:10 pm:

This is the number I found 1024130
The last didget may be wrong, it is very hard to read.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 07:39 pm:

December 29, 1915.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By CharlieB-Toms River N.J. on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 08:25 pm:

No Christmas vacations at the Ford Plant. Bah...Humbug!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob McDonald = Federa Way, Wa. on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 09:27 pm:

With the possibility of the years granging from
1916 to 1926.
There are other things to check to establish
dates of the parts -

1 high or low radiator

2 fender styles

3 Battery mount or holes in frame for one.

4 running board brackets.

allthough if its a put togather these may not help.

Hope this helps a picture would be great.

Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By "Hap" (Harold) Tucker - Sumter, SC on Monday, December 06, 2010 - 10:30 pm:

Charlie, -- they did stop engine production on Dec 25, 1915 as well as Dec 25 & 26 in 1914 and even more days off in Dec 1916.

Art -- we are looking forward to seeing some pictures when you have a chance. It is always fun to see a new owner's "Pride and Joy."

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 Model T Ford touring cut off and made into a pickup truck and l907 Model S Runabout. Sumter SC.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ART DONLEY on Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 05:05 pm:

Thanks ,
Here is my first attempt at pictures so if they don't come out, someone please let me know? This is how i found it in the"BARN", since I have done a little polishing and will share those pictures as I can get home before it gets dark to take them.
Anyone that can share any info based on what they see, please do.
artmy barn find


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George...Cherry Hill, NJ on Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 05:19 pm:

Art,

Congratulations

From here it looks like it would fit right in with the date mentined above and be a 16 Model year.

Cowl lamps would have black tops original when you find them.

You can double check...the casting date is on the block right behind the water inlet towards the cowl. It will be a few days to a few weeks prior to the original build if it is still the original block.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 05:20 pm:

Also - look for the body serial number and date on the floor riser.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By justin h on Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 05:29 pm:

easiest way to get an accurate date is to find a new lady friend at your local shooting range


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 05:30 pm:

It looks like you could be the newest "legitimate" car on a Horseless Carriage Club National tour! Very nice. I like it. I almost bought a Dec. 22 touring out of a barn a few years ago. But I did not need the project, and someone else came along so I let them get it. What are your plans?
Drive safe, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harry A. Daw on Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 06:54 pm:

Took a moment for your post to register Justin!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By justin h on Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 07:02 pm:

yeah, sorry, im a huge smartass and have a hard time resisting a good joke or pun with a setup


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman on Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 11:53 pm:

(...your last name should be Time.......)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Halpin on Wednesday, December 08, 2010 - 12:59 am:

Art, that photo is a prime example of why the guys say "post pictures". Your car has (add-on) "pancake" shock absorbers on it and it might have other accessories that will directly affect the advice you get on rebuilding it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey on Wednesday, December 08, 2010 - 01:35 am:

Art,
I have a December 10, 1915 Touring. Mine isn't as together as yours, but I've done a lot of research etc. so if I can help, just ask.
T'
David D


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By justin h on Wednesday, December 08, 2010 - 06:44 am:

harold, ive sometimes advertised my last name as "case"


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By "Hap" (Harold) Tucker - Sumter, SC on Wednesday, December 08, 2010 - 08:20 am:

Art,

Yes, the photo is a great help. Also please let us know if you want us to help you identify what year parts are on the car etc. Your posting implied that, but I don’t want to offer comments that are not wanted or helpful. It will be a fun car not matter what year the parts are that are on it.

From the single low resolution photo – we can see:

It has the 1915-early 1917 style windshield brackets and windshield hinge

It appears to have the early 1915 style brass rims on the headlamps – but many folks have put those on their cars to make them look older. If you barn find is from a previous restorer – they do those kind of things. If it is from the 1940s owner – they didn’t care.

It appears to have 30 x 3 1/2 inch clincher rim wheel on the passenger front. Canadian cars came with that size. USA cars came with 30 x 3 1/2 inch clincher rims. I cannot tell if the wheel is demountable or not from that angle. But many folks (including me) will put the later 1919-1926 demountable 30 x 3 1/2 clincher wheels and rims on the earlier cars as it makes it so much easier to change a flat. Is the rim held on with four bolts?

If you are interested in dating the different parts some clear photos of the following would be helpful:

Inside dash showing the coil box and if there is or is not a half moon circle above the coil box. Also the light switch to the right of the coil box and speedometer if equipped. See: the posting at http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/13259.html for an excellent discussion of how to recognize a later 1917-1920ish touring or roadster body that has been mounted on a 1915-1916 chassis. [This was a very common way to “restore” a 1915 or create a 1915 back in the 1950s-early 1960s. They would toss the 1915-1916 body that needed rewooding and replace it with a very similar looking 1917-1920 body.]

Inside dash showing the top of the cowl and the coil box – to show if it is riveted or not.

Photo showing the steering wheel and the type of spark and gas lever ends.

Also what type of tube if any is below the steering column?

Photo of the ends of the arm rests – do they have or did they have a metal cap?

Photo showing the door locks and the the door strikers. Note many 1916 cars had more than one style as Ford introduced the new style (often on the right front door) and used up the old style on the rear doors.

Lift up the bottom seat spring cushion and take a photo showing the type of cover (metal, wood, missing) over both the front gas tank area and the rear seat area.

While looking at the front seat area – if it has a wooden frame it may have a body number stamped into the wood in front of the gas tank or attached to the wood on a metal tag. See: forum posting “Home for the Holidays” at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/40322.html for additional details on where the body number is usually located and also where to look for a body manufacture letter such as “B”, “W”, “H” etc.)

Take a side photo showing the side of the car from the outside. So we can see if it has the carriage bolt in front of the rear door.

Photo of front spring looking down on the spring. Is the front spring tapered, pointed, or clipped?

Photo of rear spring looking down on the spring.

Also spring shackles, front axle, front axle spindles etc.

Also are there any rivets joining the cowl information or clear photos showing the parts would make it easier and more accurate:

Does it have an electric horn button on top of the steering column located below the steering wheel or an electric horn button mounted on the side of the steering column on the left side perpendicular to the steering column?

This may be way more than you are interested in and that’s ok. My 1915 has parts from 1915 to 1925 and it is a lot of fun to drive. Or this list may just wet your appetite to know more about the rear axle, transmission pedals, etc. Bruce’s “Comprehensive Model T Encyclopedia” http://mtfca.com/encyclo/mccalley.htm has photos of all those items and points out which ones are unique to the 1915, 1916, 1917, 1918 etc. year models. And of course there was overlap with most parts.

It looks like you have a great start on a touring.

Respectfully requested,

Hap l9l5 Model T Ford touring cut off and made into a pickup truck and 1907 Model S Runabout. Sumter SC


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