Engine back in but I think I have a problem

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2010: Engine back in but I think I have a problem
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By martin Cooke on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 03:12 pm:

I just installed the newly rebuilt engine in my T and something seems wrong but.... There is about a 3/8ths inch separation between the engine and drive shaft. I have not yet tried pulling them together with nuts and bolts but maybe this would work? Am I missing something? The Ruxtell is from another car and was never in this car until last week but the engine is mounted and obviously canít be moved back and as far as I know the rear canít be moved forward. Any ideas what has gone wrong?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick Goelz Knoxville,TN on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 03:22 pm:

It's the spring holding the rear end back a little,you can loosen the spring perches in the backing plate and then pull the tube forward ,put the bolts in and then retighten the perches.or sometime just setting the rear wheels down will push the tube forward.I had the same problem on my 24.
Rick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By martin Cooke on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 05:56 pm:

I will give that a try, would it put too much pressure or bend the back plate or something else?? I have posted this picture just to show the engine installed. Also I did (and should have mentioned) that I installed a lowering rear frame crossmember, would that have anything to do with this problem? It comes with the kit from Langs and lowers it 2.5 inches.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 06:16 pm:

Looks like a speedster in your picture. The body is much lighter than a stock body. If you are using the standard springs, the angle of your driveshaft will be different. Think of a triangle. The driveshaft is the hypotinuse ?spelling? If you put more weight in the center of the chassis, it should come together. The chassis lowering kit might be a factor too. You might need to remove a leaf from the rear spring to compensate, but that would be a last resort.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Patrick Martin, Branch/Lafayette, LA on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 08:39 pm:

Do you have a rubber or leather pad between the spring and crossmember?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kerry van Ekeren on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 08:51 pm:

Something doesn't sound right, Fords have been using inclosed shafts for years, especially the pommy cars upto 1948.
Now with 3/8 gap with the spring up high with no weight and or the same with a push in pot holes something is going to break or bend, it shouldn't have that sort of pressure or pull in it's full suspention travel on that ball and uni and 4 bolts, I would think.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 09:05 pm:

Are you sure the ujoint is insterted into the tailshaft????
You should mounting and connecting the perches with the spings last, anyway.
Get everything bolted up at the ball end first, then see how the perches/spring eyes/shackles line up.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By martin Cooke on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 09:06 pm:

I do not have a rubber or leather pad between the cross member and spring, would this make that much difference??


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By willie k cordes on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 09:22 pm:

Martin, some of the fourth mains that got modified with aftermarket bearings required cutting about a half inch of the drive shaft ball. Is yours babbit or aftermarket??????


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ed in California on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 09:39 pm:

I have encountered the same issue in the past, it was the rear end angle. As said above, loosen the spring clamp bolts and pull into place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Sunday, December 12, 2010 - 09:48 pm:

This is a common problem when putting Ts together. Especially with speedsters. There are many dozens of things that can cause it. Generally, the rear spring and frame can take it and will settle in after it is driven awhile. As Richard Gould says, loosen the shackles, spring mounts, (maybe even perches) first. And put that leather or rubber pad between the spring and frame first. It may effect fit some, but mostly prevents chafing of the frame and spring which results in metal hardening and eventually, breakage. After the U-joint is checked and fitted (as Willie C. suggests) and the bolts are tight, then tighten everything else.
Drive safe, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By martin Cooke on Monday, December 13, 2010 - 10:42 am:

Update- I loosened everything up and put two ratchet tie downs running from the front cross member to the rear axle and with some force ratcheting it came together I have not bolted together yet but it is together. My next question is, is this too much pressure on any part once install the bolts and I remove the tie downs or will it kind of settle itself eventually??
Thanks for the all tips so far.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Monday, December 13, 2010 - 11:06 am:

The only way I have done it is to slide the driveshaft/diff unit under the car with the first point of attachment being the rear of the engine/U-joint, followed by the spring last. Sometimes the spring shakles are not perfectly lined up and require some up or down with a jack under the pumpkin (padded) but it eventually all goes together. Lower it down to the floor and all is well. I don't see where you will have any issues if the U-joint is the first point of attachment.

Willie does make a good point about some ball bearing ball caps require the U-joint ball to be trimmed shorter. That could be a big issue as you may get it to pull together with force but it will not be able to pivot and move as designed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Monday, December 13, 2010 - 11:09 am:

Do make sure you put a pad on top of the rear spring. I vote for the new reinforced rubber type.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Monday, December 13, 2010 - 12:28 pm:

Martin, try this. With the tie downs holding everything together, loosen the rear spring clamps, perches and shackles then retighten. I am thinking these pieces will realign themselves with the ball in place.
I'd try that before anything else.


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