Well here's the thing...I haven't started the T for a few weeks and the battery was really low and had to put it on the charger to start.........
Well being cold out
I had to choke it more but it did start up...Now for the weird thing my meg quit working over the summer "tried a different meg post & cleaned were lint might be & no help back in the summer"....Well when I pulled it out I switched it over to mag just for fun.....well it was RUNNING!!!!... HOW COOL!!
I took off and the 1st little hill I got to it started to die so back to battery and there it stayed for the ride ..got back home and the mag didn't work again ...
Mag posts are prone to having weak springs and also getting off center on the solder pad. Reset yours and while you're at it,check that the spring inside is strong enough to hold it in place.
Jack maybe right or you may have a bad switch.
Try a jumper wire from the mag to the coil box and see if it runs.
Remember not to have the battery connected.(Don't want to hurt the Mag by connecting the battery by mistake).
It may take 2 people to do this
If you have the original post with the coil spring, try stretching the spring just a bit. If you have an after market post with a plunger, you will need to find a way to lengthen it or replace it.
The above is based on this theory: The cold weather caused the hogs head to contract and brought the mag contact closer to the magneto terminal inside. As the engine warmed up, the hogs head expanded and lost contact.
If it died starting up a hill, that is a symptom of too much end play in the crankshaft allowing too much gap for the mag to put out adequate voltage. It can become very intermittent, working some times, and not others. A good test is to temporarily wire in a simple AC voltage meter. Have someone watch the meter while you drive to see how the voltage changes under different actions such as using the clutch, up hill, down hill, etc. Remember, voltage should be lower at lower RPMs and higher at higher RPMs. But if the relative voltage is not consistent at relative RPM, it could indicate the flywheel is moving back and forth.
The other way to check this, is parked, with the engine off. Clamp or bolt a simple pointer onto the pan pointing at the front edge of the crank's fan belt pulley. Work the clutch in and out to apply pressure forward and back while someone watches the pulley. If it moves visibly at all, it is probably too much. The end play is only supposed to be about .002 inch
There are tricks to sort of fix this, but I have never done any of them so I'll let someone else make suggestions.
Drive carefully, W2
I'm going to pull the motor out sometime soon and let Ron rebuild it all....everything........I thought it might be the switch but its a remake and I have all new wiring...the post that came with the car was an oem type...it worked ....but
I wanted the one with the oil line and it worked good till this summer....when it stopped working I went back to the old one and no luck so back one with the oil line.....
I just thought it was funny that when I flipped it over to mag just from sitting and cranking it longer then normal it worked..... but the more I think about it the slop in the crank makes the most scene.....
Maybe it was low on gasoline? You need two or three gallons of gas in the tank to go up any sort of hill, minimum.