Hello all! I just found this forum a few days ago, and I have read quite a few threads and learned a lot.
As in many fora of this nature there is a wealth of knowledge and experience.
First my question: I am looking to have the engine/tranny in VIN# 12987766 rebuilt, and I am looking for recommendations for a capable shop.
As I am in SE Michigan, a place within reasonable distance would be good, but the quality of work available is, of course, a big consideration too.
Now, for those who have the patience to read on, let me introduce myself and give some background.
I bought my "T", a 1926 Touring, in the fall of 1957 while a senior in high school in Oslo, Norway. In 1964 I started working for Chrysler in Highland Park, MI., just down the street, Oakland avenue, from the Ford plant that most likely built my "T", so just before that I put the "T" in storage in a barn.
My grand daughter was to graduate from high school in Umeň, in Northern Sweden in 2006. Just before graduation all the graduating classes in town get together and have a ball downtown, and it is important to arrive at the ball in style! So, my granddaughter decided that I should drive her in the "T". Therefore in the late summer of 2004 I rented a car trailer, borrowed my son-in-law's Opel diesel van and drove the 700 miles to Norway, dug the "T" out of the barn, got her loaded on to the trailer, and hauled her back to my daughter's place in Umeň.
I had from time to time stopped by the barn and taken the plugs out, poured some oil down the holes, and cranked it over a few times, so we put gas and water in and proceeded to start the old girl. Yes, we laid down a pretty dense smoke screen when she lit up, but it quickly became clear that the cooling system leaked and there was no low gear. The following trips were made with quite a few parts in my suitcases, and time was spent working on the issues.
I replaced a couple of tires and tubes, fixed the water leaks and did some rewiring. All the old Scandinavia bands were replaced with kevlar. I remember well when I last replaced the low band along the road in 1961, after it started to slip in some hills.
The motor is tired. It rattles a lot. 25 mph is as fast as I dare go, and there isn't much oompf when we hit a hill. I figure the magnets are getting weak, as the engine runs much stronger on Battery than on Mag.
I'll try to attach a picture, and if I am successful, don't hit me with too much criticism for originality. The radiator is as it was when i bought the car and not the original type. The top and interior were in poor shape, so my dad redid that, but there was no consideration for original type materials. He just used what he had lying around, and because it was my dad that did the work, bless his soul, I will keep it that way. I am planning a nine week trip next summer, and I am planning to remove the engine assembly, crate it and have it shipped over here.
Sorry! The picture file was too big, and I don't know how to reduce it.
There are two excellant motor rebuilders that I know of in northwest Ohio. Joe Bell in Tiffin and Jack Putnam in Blufton.
You can reduce picture file sizes with this:
Roar, Welcome to the gang! Sounds like you have quite a bit of T experience already; there is no better group of guys anywhere then here on the forun to ask for help. Years of experience and knowledge for the asking (none from me, I still have a LOT to learn..). I'm just starting on a 25 tudor and have lots of questions myself. Again, welcome...Rick
Here's a free, easy to use site to shrink your pictures:
Jack Putnam . . is the absolute BEST! Simple as that!
I use Hart's Machining in Cecil, OH. A little drive, but he always does a great job.
As for your mag. Could be that that you have weak magnets, but it could be coil adjustment. There are a lot of coils out there that people have "Set by ear" or set on a buzz box and will not perform satisfactorily on magneto, but will run fine on battery. You might consider having someone with a hand cranked coil tester or strobospark set them up properly. Many of us can perform that service.
I very much appreciate your input, and I will look into the suggested sources. May be come spring I'll visit them.
It may well be that my coils are not adjusted properly, Hal. I know one needs to be rebuilt, and I bought a plastic cased one from MAC's as a temporary replacement. I just hope the quality is better than the pawl for the brake lever I bought from the same source. Fortunately the old pawl works O. K. with a new quadrant.
Bob and Steve, thanks for the resizing info. I tried one, and now we'll find out if it was successful.
Nope, the picture was lost in cyberspace.
It looks like success this time.
The Beetle is a 1974 1303s and the last of five my dad had. He bought a new one every five years.
I use it to get around when I visit over there.
As you can see, the "T" could use a lot of cosmetic help, but I am now focused on getting her in good mechanical shape, as I expect my daughter will end up with it eventually. Tin Lizzies are a bit different in their mechanical function, whereas the sheet metal and paint is more along common practice.
Nice looking cars, and nice looking building too!
Roar. Please see my thread on "Charging magnets while in the car. Compass Position". I first posted this thread in September when I was getting ready to recharge my magnets in the car using three 12v batteries and a compass. The advice and comments I received was very helpful and taught me alot so that, by the time I was ready, I was very successful in charging my magnets using this method. It was only this week when I got my car started that I found out how successful I was, as the engine runs better, stronger and smoother on MAG than it does on BATT. The fact I have four rebuilt and adjusted coils by Ron Patterson is, I'm sure, a contributing factor. I recently renewed this thread (See December 16, 5:07)to post an update on the success and how well this method works. If you do tear down the engine, you should get your mag coil rebuilt by Wally Szumowski (see attached contact info, below). There are few things more worrisome than to reinstall a good, but worn original mag coil back in your engine, only to wonder when it will finally give out, which will entail you having to completely tear down the engine and do the work all over again in order to to install a rebuilt mag coil. Jim Patrick
Thanks for the kind words, Luke. In a low resolution picture and at some distance the "T" doesn't look too bad. it needs help though.
The house in the background is actually the neighbor's, but it is typical for the region and very similar to my daughter's.
Jim, I think I have already read your post on re-magnetizing in situ.
I expect that since we'll have the whole thing torn down for rebuild, the field coils will be redone too. Like you indicated, it would be a crying shame to have them give up the ghost shortly after reassembly. I am trying to make it as bullet proof as I can within reasonable cost. Have noticed threads mentioning the Scat counterbalanced steel crank shaft. That looks intriguing, however not exactly cheap. I have also noticed a lot of talk about a "Z" cylinder head. mmmmm! Little scoops on the bottom of the rods and external oil supply lines, - yep, there is a lot to consider.
My daughter is not at all knowledgeable on things mechanical (I.T. project manager), and my son-in-law is a carpenter, but he has started to show some interest in the "T", so I will try to explain the inner workings to them. There is a fellow in town who has a '23 Touring and a '26 coupe, but he is not so young any more, and who knows how long he'll be around.
Clever fellow though. He restored both his "T's", and they are beautiful.
Yes there is a lot of knowledge in fora like this. I have that experience from the XK forum, as well as the Sunline camper forum, and I would certainly not expect any less here.
Allen and Don,
Putnam, OH is 135 miles from here, so that looks very promising.
Roar - a welcome from Denmark. "Ron the Coilman" told me in my first post in this Forum, that Lorentz Lorentzen in Arundel, Norway is the "Coilman of Norway" (I have no further address details). Alternatively you can have them send to me, but that may be as expensive as sending them to Ron Patterson in the US.
Does anyone know how Lorentz in Norway is, He's a great fellow
Do you mean "Arendal"?
Not that it matters, as I am thinking I will crate the engine and transmission assembly and ship it over here, and on my 1926 the coil box is mounted to the engine. That way I'll keep all the bits and pieces in one place. I would think that there are people in Scandinavia with the right tools and knowledge to do the work, but the cost of having anything done there is so high, that overall I believe it will be cheaper to ship it to the U. S., and there obviously is a wealth of expertise here.
Didn't they build Model T Fords in Denmark for a while? On mine it says "Made in U.S.A." though.
Visste du at hovedbiblioteket i Oslo heter Deichmanns Bibliotek?
Not that it matters, but my daughter's last name is almost like yours, - Larsson.