Hopefully the last spoke question for a while

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2010: Hopefully the last spoke question for a while
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jason Given - St. Paul, MN on Monday, December 20, 2010 - 12:18 am:

Next weekend I hope to start spinning out spokes. Made 72 blanks this weekend. :}

There is only one measurement I have not been able to determine. I do not have a copy of the ford wheel drawing (I have not been able to locate a copy). Does anyone know the proper radius to cut on the end of the spoke (see pic below). Both a 2” & 2 1/8” diameter appear correct in testing. However the hub itself is a 2 3/16” diameter. With the new store bought spoke placed up onto the hub has a gap in the center the arc,indicating it to be a smaller diameter, than the hub.

Anyone know what the correct arc diameter is?

Thank you very much, and happy holidays to all.


spoke1

spoke2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By G. Tillstrom on Monday, December 20, 2010 - 08:27 am:

I'm sure you will get other advice but I don't cut that radius until after the wheel is assembled. The spoke drawings I beleive calls for the center to be bored after the wheel is assembled.

The way I do it is I made a disc out of 1/4 inch plywood that fits the hub and the felloe snuggly. Once the spokes are in, place the disc in the wheel and use a router with a flush trim bit. The hole will then be concentric with the felloe and bored to the correct size of the hub.

Others have probably figured out other ways but that is how I've done it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Monday, December 20, 2010 - 11:07 am:

For the best quality wheel, the finished wheel has to be set up, indicated in, and bored to exact size. When you build spokes and wheels, you are doing woodworking, but you need to do every step with metal-working precision. While you are at it, set up your hubs on a lathe with a four jaw chuck and blueprint them. I've only checked a few sets of hubs, but was surprised to find how much they are out. A few thousandths run-out at the hub flange could easily be 1/8" or more at the tire.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky on Monday, December 20, 2010 - 09:01 pm:


quote:

While you are at it, set up your hubs on a lathe with a four jaw chuck and blueprint them. I've only checked a few sets of hubs, but was surprised to find how much they are out. A few thousandths run-out at the hub flange could easily be 1/8" or more at the tire.



Could you post a picture of your setup?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Humble on Monday, December 20, 2010 - 09:28 pm:

Here is how I did it:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/59406.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jason Given - St. Paul, MN on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 - 02:43 pm:

I really found your thread very informative. What diameter did you sand the arc to?

I have heard the term “blueprint” many times on the forum. But what do you really mean? Now my father-in-law does have an in home machine shop with all the tools I am sure I will need to do it. But what am I trying to accomplish, by blue printing the hubs. Am I trying to mill them to make sure they are perfectly round? Or what?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 - 05:59 pm:

Jason,

If you do the radius first, it's simply half the diameter of the hub nose. 2-3/16" divided by 2 = 1.093, or 1-3/32" radius. You could make it slightly undersize to ensure a tight fit with the hub. Simple as that.

However, the advice you've been given about boring the hole after the wheel is assembled is very good and will produce the best and most predictable fit. You'll also have to put a big chamfer on the spoke ends to clear the radius in the hub, where the flange meets the hub nose. Also best done after assy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 - 06:02 pm:

Jason,

What Adam is saying, if I may, is that he takes a small cut off the hub nose and the hub flange, (if needed), to ensure a true running wheel after assembly.


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