Well I took Royce's advice and tried the lighter oil in my non starter car. True I live in South Louisiana and it ain't really cold compared to where many of you are. End result is I have'nt yet had to jack up a rear wheel to start it (on an old magneto) plus it's considerably easier to turn over. I did a quick rinse with diesel during the last oil change(to the ligher oil) and I also remove the tranmission inspection cover and poured diesel over the bands and spuished them.
After a short drive and letting it idle for about 20 minutes showing it off the oil was still clean
when I checked it.
Always swore by 30 wt non d oil but I never really tried to start the car in extreme cold. (always stored it over the winter). Sold it recently and the new owner said he had trouble trying to start the car (electric starter).Said he warmed the block with a heat gun & she started easily. Based on what I've read on the Forum I advised him that a multi grade oil might be his answer.
If you flush with diesle and don't remove the inspection pan when you drain it you'll be leaving a little less than a quart of diesle in the rod dips.
That'll thin that 5W-20 down to nothing W-thin.
I'd change it again.
Awesome Dex! I just filled mine the day before yesterday with 5W-20 Pennzoil Platinum synthetic!
No doubt such a thin oil will make the car easier to crank start in winter but unless you're in Northern Alaska I'd consider changing to something thicker for summer. Although it's debatable what viscosity of oil is best for a T engine one mustn't forget that the engine oil is also the transmission oil, and that T transmission bands can wear easily. If you had to drive your T in hilly country in 90 to 100 F temperatures would your prefer 5w-20 or 20w-50 coating your transmission bands?
Constantine, You're a person on my type of wave length, Cheers and a Merry Christmas...Kerry
Dunno. I live near Dex and I've used 5W-20 Pennzoil synthetic in both my trucks which I purchased brand new. No noticable wear in either, got close to 300,000 miles on one and 90,000 on the other. Pulled the pans last season checkup and checked the mains, rods, and oil pump...all waaay within spec. That's good for me.
My T is a fresh rebuild by me with .002" clearances throughout. I think it'll be nice to be able to buy one type of oil to keep stocked.
Thinner oil gets there quicker...
One way of looking at it Pat, but on the other side, it also leaves quicker...
I have been reluctant to use synthetic oil because of the bands. The computer in my modern car showed an increase in milage when I installed the purple synthetic oil. To those of you who are using synthetic, how do the bands react to synthetic?? Does anyone know if there is a conflict with babbitt? Thanks, Hal
Patrick, I hear what you're saying but I think you're missing the point. 5w-20 oil may or may not 'get there quicker' but with regards to the transmission the question is "Is it up to the job when it is there?". Your T has a differential and perhaps a Warford; I'm sure no one on this forum is going to suggest you use 5w-20 oil for these. Think about why that is... I haven't so far suggested what oil you should use and I'm not going to, rather my point is to have you consider that perhaps UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS (eg. hilly terrain, high temperatures) 5w-20 may not provide the necessary protection needed for your bands as it certainly would never do in a differential or Warford.
"Which oil?" for some reason is a very emotive issue in the old car world!!!
P.S. Don't forget if easy hand crank starting is important there is also 5w-30, 5w-40, 5w-50 and even 0w-50.
Kerry and everyone else reading this...have a safe and Merry Christmas. I'm sure 'which oil?' will be discussed again in 2011!
If you think thicker oil means better oil you are mistaken. You need to use appropriate oil for the conditions you operate in. If the ambient average temperature is above 90 degrees every day then you might want to run a 10W-30 in a car that has to be crank started. If it is average temps over 100 degrees then 20W-50 would be perfect.
I agree Royce; I guess I shouldn't have painted with so broad a brush. S'cuse me y'all
For a fresh rebuild what would you recommend Royce? I did plastigauge and mic everything to the clearances in the 'T bible' and I was thinking of going with something light so the oil gets in there. I chamfered the caps, have dippers and drilled the rods but only a teeny 1/8" hole. We have no real hills here, it's pretty flat, but I do plan on towing with my roadster. What would you think would be best?
I would say whatever is appropriate for the temperature. Is it winter outside? 5W-20 or 5W-30 works fine if it is under about 95 degrees average temperature.
I like towing the car around in high gear with the plugs removed for a few miles prior to starting a new engine. Squirt some oil down the cylinders beforehand.
That '15 of Dex's is a cool car.
Keep in mind that the latest Detergent oils grade SM are made specifically for cars with Catalytic converters and as such do not contain the optimum levels of the very best anti wear additive ZDDP. In addition, they contain friction modifiers (slipery agents) which may affect the bands and the clutch. For correct information on these problems, google Penrite Oil.
Oh no, the ZDDP monster has reared its head again. This one has been thrashed to death here several times this year. Oh well. Merry Christmas everyone!
I prefer a heavier grade of oil. I run Rotella 15W-40 pretty much all the time. Its cheap (Walmart), has the right viscosity and wear additives, and my cars run smoother with heavier oil. I live in California and don't drive in cold weather, ie below 55 degrees. In the middle of summer, when its in the 90s, I sometimes I use 20W-50.
Yes, It has been a subject that has been flogged pretty hard, but I think for the better.
A simple motor doesn't need rocket science and the best that money can buy to keep it running sweet.
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL...
Merry Christmas to you & your family !!
Fred, there will be those who refuse to read labels & understand what they purchase.
Those in the know will be enjoying our rides long after the others complain of their dilemma.
I'm going for a ride tonight to chase the "big guy" in the red suit & sleigh.............. LOL !!
Full tank of gas, 10W40 motorcycle oil in the sump, E-Timer prototype, & a few layers of clothing will get me there & more miles of enjoyment.
Thanks for your research, always appreciated.
"T"-Crank-Yankers Chapter MTFCA
Ocean County, New Jersey
Like Richard I too use Rotella 15w40 in my cars & trucks. Never had a problem with it and will continue to use it.
The ex wife's 06 F-150 required 5w30 synthetic so that's what it got each oil change.
Ran 50 weight in my '62 Ford 390/375hp Convertible & '58 Ford Station Wagon. Kept the lifters a bit quieter not to mention I had a stockpile of it when a local auto parts store went out of business and I got it cheap.
Luke: ( and all )
Merry Christmas !
Like the synthetic oil, the ex was high maintenance too ?? LOL
Oil viscosity is just as important as what the manufacturer puts into the blend. Gottta read the labels. Newer cars for the most part use 5W30 viscosity, but the owners manual specifies to use an oil that meets a manufacturers specification, ie: GM 6095M , for a 2009 V6 Buick.
Motorcycle oil is available in 10W40, SF rated, with no friction modifiers, & just about the highest amount of pressure/wear additives available in an oil container off the shelf. Dino & synthetic. Your choice.
There's no way you could crank Dex's car with 15W-40 or 20w-50. You guys must have heated garages or starters. Or both!
You bet light engine oil makes a difference, especially when the engine is cold.
I find it unusual that people will drive a 20 horsepower car with a crankcase filled with power-robbing molasses.
Merry Christmas, Dex and Jen!
Luke has it RIGHT!
Cheap beats any other hand.
I'll continue to use 5-30 and 10-30 until a cheap alternative comes around.
Thanks Seth and Merry Christmas to all of you.
Michael Deichmann had said something about his engine noises being more quite with lighter oil and the same seem to be the case with mine as well. My engine is quite noisey but I try and baby it just as much as I can. We drove it today about four miles out and back to my Aunt's.
It's really cold for South Louisiana weather today. As usual the car started easy and gave no trouble. I even just about got that old water pump to stop leaking! I like the dang hing leaks or not. If I ever get a brand new radiator then I'll get rid of it.
Mr. Aaron Griffey I respect your knowledge and stature here and I will consider your input for future occasions.
Gorgeous car Royce!!!!! Merry Christmas!
And Merry Christmas Dex and Seth!!!!
Thanks Pat, same here.. Merry Christmas!
Thanks for the kind words.
I had the 12 out for a bit yesterday. About 35 degrees here in Dallas, and a nasty wind. Took three pulls on the crank to start it. No way it would have started with 20W-50 molasses in there!
Thanks Pat. Merry "the day after" Christmas and I hope you have a grand 2011.