Bearing removal on wood wheels

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2010: Bearing removal on wood wheels
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dominic Johnson on Friday, December 24, 2010 - 01:42 pm:

I've got a set of wood wheels that have been soda blasted and the rims and hubs have been powder coated. Two things seemed to have happened during the process. I think some sand worked its way into the bearings and during the baking process all the grease that was in there liquified and settled to one side, then hardend back up. As a result they are all locked up.(to be honest I do not know how well they spun before)

My question is, is there a way to remove the bearings without having to split the hub and removing it from the wood spokes.

Thanks,


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace on Friday, December 24, 2010 - 02:07 pm:

Follow the Ford Service Manual instructions.

I take it the front spindle is off?

So only the inner bearing and race are now toast due to blasting.

Punch out that bearing, and then use a long punch to remove the bearing race (cup) too. Replace with new, race, bearing, and dust shield. The bearing should fit snug on the spindle bearing boss. A slight press fit. The bearing itself needs to turn in the cup (race) inside the wheel hub and on its inner race now locked to the spindle boss.



Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino on Friday, December 24, 2010 - 02:08 pm:

According to the service manual, it is not necessary to split the hub to remove the bearings and races. In fact, I imagine it would probably make the job more difficult.

It says, "Remove the front dust cap assembly by driving it out of the hub. Inside cone and roller assembly can now be lifted out of hub. Drive out front hub bearing cup - inner. The front bearing cup - outer - is removed in the same manner."

Sounds like yours are pretty gunked up. I'd carefully clean them by jently scraping out the crud, use a little penetrating oil, then drive them out. Mine were really bad, but patience and a little elbow grease worked fine.

Good Luck!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino on Friday, December 24, 2010 - 02:10 pm:

Dan and I were writing at the same time. He's a lot more technology able than I . The pictures should tell the whole story!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis L. Myers on Friday, December 24, 2010 - 04:59 pm:

I just received a new inner bearing and dust cap for rebuilding one of my front wheels. The dust cap is the modern Neoprine type. What is a mystery to me is which direction the cap is supposed to be placed on the hub, i.e., open side in or closed side in?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George...Cherry Hill, NJ on Friday, December 24, 2010 - 05:12 pm:

Dennis,

I'm sure someone will have a more intelligent answer, but here's the simple back porch version...

What do you want to do? :-) :-) Keep the grease in? or...keep the outside out? The lip faces in the direction of the desire :-):-)

Not joshing, true....

Merry Christmas!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tman, on Friday, December 24, 2010 - 05:38 pm:

Who would powder coat a hub without taking it apart to degrease and clean it first.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Saltsgaver on Friday, December 24, 2010 - 07:36 pm:

I've not had to change any frnt wheel bearings yet. Are there notches in the hub to make room for a punch to contact the bearing races (to remove the race)? The pic's above don't show any.
Mike Sa


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Warren Mortensen, Ham Lake, MN on Friday, December 24, 2010 - 08:49 pm:

There are two notches for using a punch. Early cars lacked this handy notch however.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis - Lyons, GA on Saturday, December 25, 2010 - 11:57 am:

I just had to take the inner race out of a non demountable and it was a @#$%^. There were a couple of notches, but for what, I don't know. Nowhere near deep enough to allow you to get a punch behind the race. The race was cracked across its face. I managed to get a variety of chisels, pry bars, and later, punches in behind it and get it twisted up out of there. I have also heard of people running a weld bead around the inner surface of the race. after it cools, it draws the diameter down a few thousandths and allows the race to fall out. I thought about trying it, but managed to get it out without welding.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace on Sunday, December 26, 2010 - 12:04 pm:

Hal

Those inner races can be tough, even with the notches. They are small.

So I home made a punch from an old star drill. The cutout portion of the 'backside' shank of the drill allows the bit of access from the hub casting which is needed for the tip of the drill/punch to hit the edge of the race cup.... works for me :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nicholas Lingg on Sunday, December 26, 2010 - 12:43 pm:

Running bead of weld on race surface is the easiest way to get them out


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