I just installed an outside oil line purchased from Langs. Very very poor quality,
The re pops can be fixed, finding originals at swaps is one way too, but these are always in need of repair.
The main thing on the repop is to reduce the length of the spring loaded contact brass pin. Especially if using a redone coil ring with nice fat pad of solder contact. Trim the pin so that you get contact, and so that the fixture fits flush and oil tight to the hogshead.
New Repop oil line fitting on hoghead
I got one of those Lang's front oilers and installed it without any problem.
I might not know the definition of quality but the "fit and finish" were good and the thing transfers oil the front of the motor and electricity from the mag to the coils without any problem.
It looks like the one in Dan's last picture.
"I just installed an outside oil line purchased from Langs. Very very poor quality,"
Which type (09-25 or 25-27) and what was the problem? I think all suppliers carry the same mag mounted outside oilier.
As I mentioned, the repop parts are pretty nice, only the spring loaded brass contact pin is too long most times.
Here is an 'unmodified' one, won't seat on the hogshead as the pin is fully compressed and still won't sit flat.
But that's an easy trip to the grinding wheel and dressing the brass point down some.
Oh, I made mistake and cut the tubing too short. Yea I know, measure twice, cut once. But anyway....took a piece to the Helpful Hardware Man, and they don't stock this schedule of brass tubing. Thought it was simple copper tubing for refrigerator water lines and stuff, but it is a thicker wall for resistance to vibrations I guess. Man, that tubing that comes with the oil line kit is hard to bend, no wonder!
So I had to use the std stuff, wall thickness seems OK to me, its not like the oil is under pressure, and maybe the new engine rebuild with the balance job won't shake the line apart
i just put extra washers under it instead of grinding the end
I was directing my question at the original poster, Bill Thompson.
I used regular copper pipe that I bought from Lowes. It's gone 500+ miles on a new engine, thus far, and is doing just fine. It doesn't mean I won't have problems in the future, but I haven't noticed any problems, yet. It was a fun, learning experience for me as I had never flared pipe, etc. before.
I have just pulled my engine down for overhaul and found that the inside oiling tube was totally clogged. Thank you, cotton bands.
I'm thankful that I had installed an outside oil line some time back - it may have saved me some grief. The front crankshaft bearings are in very good condition.
I modified (drilled the inside holes larger) an inline fuel filter so that I can monitor the flow of oil. And it shows that a considerable amount of oil is flowing to the front of the engine.
I started with the kit from Lang's and found it to be very satisfactory.
Went to Kevlar bands about five years ago and have found them totally satisfactory, and free of the 'lint' that clogged my oil line.
Happy New Year, Guys.
Is that Chevy Engine Orange?
Actually, Hal, it's a 1965 Ford color, 'Poppy Red' that I have on my '65 Mustang.
Whoops, The photo didn't make my last post.
The Mustang has a home-brewed 'Mother-in-Law Seat' - rumble seat. Won 'Best of Show' this year.
I used a steel brake line on the outside oiler on the TT. Worked great and don't have to worry about it breaking. Dave
OK. That's a horse of a different color!
Copper tubing WILL crystallize from vibration after a while.
I had a 1923 roadster with a copper outside oil line that broke while on the road. I had pulled up to a stop light and had someone yell out their window that my car was leaking. I pulled off to the side opened the hood and found the tube pulsing oil out on the road like having your jugular vein severed! I was lucky I caught it before hitting the freeway. I was able to crimp the tubing end, add oil and head on home.
Davids right on with using a steel line even though it's not as easy to bend to fit.
I would think a stabilizer strap off the water outlet would help reduce the vibration that leads to tubing failure.
BTW: It broke right at the union on the front of the engine.
I had the same experience as Jay. The line is now steel.
I was roadtesting a '23 Fordor when the oil line broke.
It was still pumping oil when I got to the shop but It took 4 quarts to fill it back up.
The copper line broke off near the front end.
You can stay with copper if you use a 4 inch piece of automatic transmission cooler hose or fuel line at each end. Then it won't work harden and snap off.
best and cheaper in the long run is steel brake line. It will not kink on gradual bends that you can make with your hands.