Slant oil pan's snout. - How to align?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2010: Slant oil pan's snout. - How to align?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sven Becker on Monday, December 27, 2010 - 07:18 am:

First of all: *Season's Greetings to all of you!*

After replacing the very worn crank bushing, the crank's play has reduced as wanted.

BUT: I now detected, that the centerlines of crank and crank-shaft don't meet. Why? The oil-pan's snout has a bad bend, so that crank and ratchet turn to 11 o'clock pretty far, - too far for the ratchet to engage.

For the crank is bend a bit, too, I think this is due to a former accident (not mine), in which the crank hang at 5 o'clock and the car drove against something.

So: How could I get things in good alignment again?

Cordial thanks
and kindest regards

Sven


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson on Monday, December 27, 2010 - 10:58 am:

Sven
The K.R. Wilson engine pan alignment jig was specifically designed to align the entire engine pan, flatness of the engine mating surface, longitudinally, laterally and the pan arms. On both ends of the pan jig there are fixtures that are used to align the ball cap and crank handle hole.
There are are several fellows here in the USA who has them and knows how to properly utilize it.
Ron the Coilman


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Adam Doleshal on Monday, December 27, 2010 - 12:11 pm:

I have a gauge I made that helps in the alignment of the "pan nose". I machined both ends of a piece of round steel stock that is a little longer than the pan. One end is a slip fit into the nose with the crank handle bushing removed, the other is machined to a slip fit with the crank bushing installed. If you are going to make a rough check of a pan to see if the nose is bent, checking it with the bushing installed is okay, however, if you are planning on straightening the pan, using the gauge with the bushing removed will give you the most accurate results. When the nose is properly straightened, the gauge should be able to be inserted from the rear of the pan and the piece of stock should be centered up on the fourth main bolt holes.

I do not own a KRW pan straightening jig, but I am able to obtain the same pan-straightening results by the use of this gauge, an engine block that is known to be flat and true on the pan rails, and some precision measuring equipment. I will not go into detail about my method, but I have double-checked the pans I have straightened and they are all right on the money. A friend of mine with a Fab shop even offered to build me a copy of the KRW setup (for free) and we finally decided it would be counter-productive because my method works just as well and takes up much less space.

I DO NOT offer pan straightening all by itself as one of my services, I only do pan straightening if we are re-building a complete engine assembly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Sumner on Monday, December 27, 2010 - 05:41 pm:

I also have a early pan with the nose bent out of alignment. Would I try to bend it cold or use heat. Thanks, Les


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joe Bell on Monday, December 27, 2010 - 05:52 pm:

I would use heat, it will move a lot easier, DO NOT make it cherry red that will change the temper of the casting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Barrett on Tuesday, December 28, 2010 - 12:28 am:

Heat works well for straightening the pan nose, but be advised that you will see solder dropping on the floor. It was used to seal the front pan dam. This is not a deal breaker, you will just need to use a modern sealant to replace it. I paint the area with Glyptal. JB weld also works well. Here is a picture of the KRW pan jig checking the nose alignment.Pan jig


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