Tall Radiator Shroud

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2010: Tall Radiator Shroud
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Saltsgaver on Thursday, December 30, 2010 - 01:48 pm:

I'd like to find a better black shroud for my early 26 touring to go with the brand new radiator I just got from Adam (a brassworks part). There is a bad spot on the panel (the part with "Ford" stamped into it) where there must have been a radiator leak at some point in time & it caused about 2 inches of the bottom edge (with the bead) on the drivers side to rust away.

I bought one from Tbay about a year ago & it was advertised as "ready to paint & install"....well, it wasn't. The brackets on the bottom were missing & the hole for the radiator filler neck was all cracked & broken where it had been making contact with the radiator. The seller didn't get a good feedback from me....

How hard is it to find a decent shroud? Can I cut the panels out of both shrouds & make one good one out of 2 (it's obvious that they were not made by the same stamping die)?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Thursday, December 30, 2010 - 03:44 pm:

Is your car strictly a driver or are you pushing for near-show?
I will tell you how I have fixed two like that.
First, clean the area really well, front and back. You may need to use a little mild acid to remove the rust, but not much as it will make the missing area larger.
Use a little tape on the front side. Masking tape would probably work, but I have always used electrical tape. Press the tape to conform to the shape of the bead as best you can. It may be difficult around the corner, but you can fix that later. Fill a medium-thin coat of JB Weld on the back using the tape to hold it in place. If the gap in the shell is more than a 1/4 inch square, you may want to put a little bit of wire or window screen in the glue. Lay the shell flat till it hardens. Remove the tape from the front. Use a coarse file and sand paper to shape it and smooth it. You will usually have to add a little more filler or glue to fill something that the tape didn't shape correctly. Now it is just spot filler, prime and sand like any other repair and paint.
The reason I use electrical tape, is that it pulls easily off the epoxy glue once it has hardened, and leaves a smooth surface. Masking tape, in my experience, has stuck and left a rough surface requiring more prep work before painting. But it would depend upon the tape you have or use.
Granted, this is a cheap and dirty way to fix this. But it takes a shell that otherwise really isn't worth fixing, and can make it look really nice. The shell is rigid enough that it doesn't tend to crack or break out for a long time. A panel can be taken from one shell and welded onto another. But welding tends to distort sheet metal unless you have a proper spot-welder or drill holes on the back panel and wire-weld through them. And getting a good panel off of a bad shell without distorting the panel isn't easy (I know, I did that once). Good shells are still available. And welding onto the bottom is easier to clean up and make it look nice (in part because it is down low and lost behind fenders and headlamps). Fixing a "rust-off" by welding is usually a lot more work than a shell is worth. At least on such a small spot that is SO visible.
Happy New Year! And drive carefully, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Saltsgaver on Thursday, December 30, 2010 - 05:08 pm:

I'm trying to post a picture of the shroud, but I'm kornpletely kornputer kornfused. It says the pic needs to be smaller than 200 kb. How do I adjust that? I do have paint shop pro on the computer, but it only has print size (in inches) and pixel size (in pixels).


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Saltsgaver on Thursday, December 30, 2010 - 08:34 pm:

Ok, the guys were helping me to figure the picture thing out....Rusty spot on shroud


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dale Peterson on Thursday, December 30, 2010 - 08:48 pm:

I also have a problem shroud, only it is a "Made in Canada" part and the surround has a crack, a rub hole where the light bar was against one side and part of the back flange for the webbing is missing. The center panel looks good and it is brass with nickel plating. I have considered finding another shroud and and replace my center into it. Is this going to be possible, who can do this work. Canadian shrouds are not going to be as available to just go find another.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Nelson on Thursday, December 30, 2010 - 11:49 pm:

Dale,
The plated brass shroud center is soft soldered to the outer section. A high wattage iron should be enough to get it apart and back together. If you need to re-plate, the plater will like to do the parts separately.
Gene


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