I'm putting my car back together, but don't know what size the wood block should be. This is the block that is located inside the frame, where the crankcase arm is bolted (just snug) to the frame.

The block I took out, was rotten, and also appeared to have been on fire... The fire was me, while welding and burning the stuck bolt out that ran through it. So, there just isn't enough left to measure.

Seems easier to ask, than to figure it out. I would think that somewhere out in T land there is a block that isn't installed.

Thanks a bunch.

That's great, thanks Michael.

Here's a dumb question, which side faces towards the engine block?

Tapered side toward the frame. (It will only fit one way). Note: Put the upper mount bolt in from the bottom first and snug the nut up on it to hold it in place, then slide the wood block in.

That's great thanks. I've got the upper bolt in, what a struggle as I had no fishing line here. Now that I'm inside of course, I realize that there are spools, and spools of thread in here!!!!

Fantastic, I'll make up the blocks tomorrow, and stick 'em in.

Those drawings are for the early style. The late style are almost square, but I'm not sure when they came out. I know they used them in 25-7.

I should have said, that its for my '26 Coupe. I guess I'll measure up the passenger side block, and make that style.

Christopher Lang:

I always cut my spacer block a little too wide. I like mine pretty snug. I then grind the block on a grinder so I can use a little force to enter the block. If you want to save a lot of time lining up the cotter pin holes its much,much FASTER to use self locking all metal nuts not the the castle nuts.

Also Christopher, its very easy to install the top bolt if you line the hole with a spud or at least a 3/8" punch. After you have the holes lined up put you top bolt in a thin cloth. Force the head of the bolt with the cloth around the head into the longest end wrench you have. I use a rubber hammer to drive the bolt into the wrench. that way you bolt will not drop out. I have a double ended end wrench that must be about 10 inches long or more so the wrench is easy to reach the hole with the bolt. After the self locking nut has been tightened down it is easy to remove the wrench and cloth.

If the body is already on the car it is much easier to use an air ratchet to tighten the top nut and the side bolt.

Here are the dimensions of a NOS block: 1 7/16 X 2 3/16 X 1 3/4. It has a 1/2" hole.
Hope this helps.

See:
www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/136745.html and
www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/155696.html

Jim Patrick

Does anybody with an early car actually run thier fuel line behind that block? You would have to have a couple of quick bends between the wood block and the carburetor. Can that be fed through with the block in place or would you have to remove the block to do it?