Electrolyis method for rust removal using water and battery charger

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2011: Electrolyis method for rust removal using water and battery charger
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick Hurliman on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 07:10 pm:

Was told that people in the forum would have instructions for setting up a tank using water and battery charger to remove rust from metal fact or fiction.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thunder on the Plains of Colorado on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 07:16 pm:

Fact...
http://oldgas.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=127321#Post127321


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Money, Braidwood, IL on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 07:38 pm:

Yes, I have one. It works great. I use rebar for electrodes (Don't use stainless). I have a 30 volt power supply that runs it. My tank is about 4 feet long and 2 feet wide. Arm & Hammer "washing" soda not baking soda. The rest you will find from the above link that Thunder put up. Several of us use this.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Vaughn on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 07:55 pm:

Here is a link to this subject that was brought up on last years forum. There is a lot of really good information on how to set up and all of the materials needed with plenty of good results.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/126164.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 07:57 pm:

I have used it many times really neat to see rust reform to metal


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thunder on the Plains of Colorado on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 09:26 pm:

If you get Arm & Hammer "Baking" soda, you can bake it in the oven for a while, this will convert it into "Washing" soda.... Dont ask me how or why this works, but it does.

I read that on one of the links somewhere. But it has to be Arm & Hammer....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick Hurliman on Monday, February 28, 2011 - 09:48 pm:

Thanks guys Paul Vitko said you would be able to steer me in the right direction.Can"t wait to try it out on some castiron pistons since we can"t use aluminum pistons for our racers, club rules.Also seems a great way to clean up transmission found laying outside for years.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Tuesday, March 01, 2011 - 03:08 am:

I just use a cheap switchable 2 or 6 amp charger and a 30 gallon plastic storage container. It seems to work best on the 2 amp setting. it takes a couple hours for really rusty parts, but does an amazing job. After final cleaning, I treat it with a phosphoric metal prep solution.
Drive safe, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH on Tuesday, March 01, 2011 - 09:25 am:

Here is the link to the actual article explaing how to set one of these up.

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Tuesday, March 01, 2011 - 10:07 am:

Rick-
I use a charger that I got from Harbor Freight. It has settings for 2 amps, 10 amps and 55 amps (intended for starting.) Using the 55 amp setting really speeds up the process.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-2-55-amp-6-12-volt-battery-charger-engine-starte r-66783.html

I. too, like to use sheet metal for the sacraficial annode. The amount of surface area seems to make a difference. Then you can clean the sheet metal with a disc-grinder or belt-sander to get a good clean surface.

Make sure you get the connections correct. The way some people do it is to use Re-bar for the sacrificial annode. So rememberer, Red goes to Re-bar.

: ^ )

-Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By A.J. "Art" Bell on Tuesday, March 01, 2011 - 10:33 am:

I’ve mentioned this in previous posts, but will add it to this thread as well.
If your charger is of the ‘polarity protected’ type and does not have an over ride
switch, it will not work. These chargers expect to find a battery with enough
power (and correct polarity hook up of the leads) to trigger the charger to start.
Hooking the charger to a battery and the battery to the electrodes will get around
this problem. Just remember – no sparks or flame – you now have 2 sources of
hydrogen and oxygen. Always make sure you have adequate ventilation and do not
cover the electrolyte container when in use.

Regards
Art


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thunder on the Plains of Colorado on Tuesday, March 01, 2011 - 11:18 am:

Excelent points Art. Rick, be sure to read everything on that link that was provided. I've used the process a few times myself, with excelent results. I have a large tub that I set up outside the shop. The trick is to find the right tub for the parts being cleaned.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kep on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 02:41 am:

i have no washing soda and only a 1/2 gallon container so i used washing powder and found the reaction stopped after half an hour. Where did i go wrong? Does the water need to be a large volume or replaced? Or is the powder more important than i first thought?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode - Onalaska, WA, USA on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 02:54 am:

Maybe you can check in your kitchen for some Arm and Hammer baking soda, it works as well as Arm and Hammer washing soda. I don't know what washing powder is but if it worked for awhile maybe you have a bad connection or lost power.

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dane Hawley near Melboune Australia on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 03:32 am:

'Baking Soda' is Sodium Bicarbonate.
'Washing Soda' is Sodium Carbonate.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 05:03 am:

I have used a mix of baking soda and electrosol dishwashing powder, works as well as washing soda I thought. KB


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 10:47 am:

Adding some salt helps the entire reaction considerably. In my 100 gallon tank I use two cups of washing soda and a cup of salt. I just put more in when it quits working so well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis - SE Georgia on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 03:58 pm:

I don't know where the "Has to be Arm and Hammer" came from, but I disagree with that statement. I cannot find washing soda in my area, but either "ph up" or "ph down" (Sorry, Chemistry wasn't my strong suit) for swimming pools is Sodium Carbonate. Your local pool store or even Walmart (Although I avoid them if at all possible) will have it. It worked fine when I tried it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Danial Davis of Veneta, Oregon on Wednesday, November 30, 2011 - 06:20 pm:

I have used Ospho for changing rust for years. Buy it by the gallon and brush it on lightly...works great!


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