Who here is running some Home built speed equipment? Items that were not or not commercially available. Please post pics.

Now there is something you don't see every day!

I wonder how much boost the T bottom end can take?

John

apparently the model t bottom end can take alot, but i would think that that engine would have a model a crank.

did you build that mike?

Possibility of a very interesting thread. From the "home builder" approach. Cool

I do not have a photo of it, but the late George Azevedo built a SOHC conversion for a B series Rajo. I got to talk to George about the setup during the lunch break at the SCVMTFC endurance run last year. Wish I took some photos. Maybe some one here has some and will post them.

I love T speed equipment and speedsters. This thread could be great way for our members to strut their stuff.

I have run 5 lbs of boost on that setup. It is a bone stock T with the exception of aluminum pistons. 50mph is no problem. With that turbo it doesn't begin to spool till about 35 mph and by that time there is very little torque being applied to the bottom end. It will gain speed up almost any hill.

Mike,

I know this will sound like now that you said it I would agree, but I was guessing 5 pounds. I have messed around with twin turbos on a V8.

John

That turbo was so big it never created enough boost to work the waste gate. It is a Garret T04 turbo from a Dodge Daytona of the mid 80's.

Mike
Are you running some type of oil pump to at least oil the turbo? I have a turbo unit sitting on the shelf from a mid '80's T bird 4 cylinder. Probably similar unit.

I have one from a 60's Corvair Spyder sitting on a shelf, complete with Carter YH sidedraft one barrel. Yes, Carter did make a one barrel sidedraft carb, and it is huge; at least 1 3/4 to 2 " venturi. They were first used on the old Hudson Hornet sixies with Twin H power. Evidently they are much in demand by Corvair collectors as I was shocked by how much one collector offered me for it, however I was planning on trying on trying to adapt it to my T. I have since given up on the idea and wish that I had taken his offer.

Yes I used a power steering pump from a subi. It was regulated down to around 30 psi. I used a modified sway back nh and it is a blow through system. The nh had to be internally vented in order take pressure among other mods.

Tom Carnegie engineered the nh and many other aspects.

So then I would assume that you have a pressure compensated fuel regulator. I would like to hear the rational for blowing thru the NH rather than sucking thru. I realize either way works, but the blow thru adds some complexity. Is there a performance advantage?

Paxton used to make superchargers for the aftermarket. They would provide a box around the carb. to avoid the pressure differential problems. The only seals were for the throttle and choke shafts. They claimed the blow through gave better response, without throttle lag, flat spots etc. I ran one on an early Corvair and it worked well!

With blow through the manifolding was easier to build. With a suck through system the turbo has a tendency to fling the fuel out of the air and to the walls of the turbo housing. Not a problem except for start up after being run. The system is usually very rich and the flung fuel pools in the turbo housing, starting can be a little difficult.

I worked for RAYJAY for many years and we Turbo-Normalized about 30 different types of airplanes. We could not boost but we were allowed to maintain sea level performance. We took a Cessna 210 to 42,000 feet and some change back in 1967. A Navy pilot flew it and he had to wear a pressure suit. The scientific boys lent us a silver plated rotating drum an a sealed box with a stylus needle to establish the true corrected pressure altitude. We used a Lear jet for the chase plane. He was chugging along at 90 knots indicated but actually going over 200 and stalling from time to time and loosing a few thousand feet in power on stalls.

Anyway most of the planes were fuel injected but on the carbureted ones we drilled out the throttle shafts and used O-rings to seal them. They were Marvel-Shebler updraft carburetors. We had alternate air boxes that would flop open if we got too much boost. We used hand operated waste gates to control boost using Aren's control cables.

We did all Cessnas, Pipers, Aero Commanders, the Lake Amphibian, Brantley helicopter, Britton Island Normander and Tri- Islander, DeHavalin Heron and Dove which we re-powered with Lycoming engines taking out the inline water cooled ones. Also a few Beechcrafts and some other one offs too. We also did a V W air-cooled bug and a Pinto and then I left them in 1969, when I hired one of my best students to take my place when I became a college Dean.

Alright enough about my junk, anyone else make some stuff?

Terry Woods,

The Carter YH sidedraft carburetor was used on a number of marine engines in the '60s and '70s; Graymarine, and 256-312 Interceptor for two.

You may be able to find some YH's at boat shops or marine engine repair shops.

Here's my homebuilt intake/exhaust manifold.

I made the log manifold from a section cut out of a Lowe's Home Improvement Center steel fence post!

I already had the pair of small 1930's Zenith 1-barrel carburetors (from a IHC marine engine) and made the manifold out of bits and pieces to fit the carbs.

The bracket holding the throttle linkage bellcrank was fabricated from a shelf bracket from Ace Hardware.

Runs great - most of the time.

Robb, can you post a better picture, please?

Aye, Tom,

I'll try.

This better?

I think the camera lens is making it look like they are leaning apart. They're not really, everything is plumb.

Nice Robb! Has someone squared up the intake holes for better breathing to the valves? For kicks I took a junk block with a router and a bureing bit with a template, it took about half an hour to open one side up with a much larger hole for the intake manifold.

After deciding not to go the turbocharging route on my T, I toyed with the idea of using one of the Carter YH sidedraft carbs without turbo boost. I decided it just might be to much air/fuel mixture for my car and I'm going to try a Model B intake and exhaust with a single Zenith updraft. if that doesn't give me the Zooom that I want, I may still try to adapt a YH

My exhausts:

My speedster runs a Carter YH. And yes, it is a big carb. The engine has a Fronty T head, A crank, .125" over bore, So it's hardly stock. I figure that the displacement has increased about 13%, which certainly helps.
Throttle response is great (the accelerator pump helps), and it runs well all of the way from idle to WOT.
The one time I checked mileage, was on a tour in eastern Washington where speeds for the day averaged 45mph. I got right around 22 mpg.
So, on a modified engine it will be fine. Stock? I don't know.

Paul

My 63 Olds Jet Fire had a turbo charger with a dump gate to keep boost at 5#. Blocking the dump gate brought the boost to around 12#. (Voided the warranty though) Corvair lowered the compression ratio on the spyder to compensate for the blower while Olds kept the 10.25 to 1 ratio of the 215 cu in engine. To boost the effective octane rating they added water/alky injection. The alky was to keep the water from freezing in the winter. Running 12# boost sure sucked up the water/alky that had to be bought at the Olds dealer as it also had a turbo lubricant added. The car was dangerous though as it had a tendency to swap ends if you let off the gas suddenly on a wet pavement. Swapped it in for a '65 442. Now that was a great car.

Had a 64 El Cameno I installed a 66 Toranado 425, 385 horse 475 ft pounds of torque. Thought it was a slug until playing with other cars of the day . Good mileage if you kept it out of the rear barrels of the quadrajet. Seven years of my foot on the gas broke the frame ahead of the rear axel.

Thanks for the pics Bob

Planning for the brake drums on the four corners of the Racer/Speedster. Got the aluminum here:

http://www.sandsmachine.com/alumweb.htm

That's going to be some real nice drums John, look forward to hear/see more about your brake set up. Hydraulic right?

Thanks Dex.

Yep - basically mid sixties F250, but with considerably lightened backing plates and narrowed shoes.

Narrowing shoes requires new shorter anchor pin and recessed wheel cylinder and related mods, because the shoes get closer to the backing plate.

Though I have heard of hardened shoes, these are a zip job on the Do All band saw for narrowing. Stock they are about 2 1/16 wide and after removal of a strip from back and front, they are close to 1.470"

J.O.