I have 1926 wood wheels that I replaced the bolts on. I am wondering the best way of keeping the six new hub bolts tight.

Factory used to peen them over. They didn't have lock tight back then. Henry loved cotter pins but they can't be tightened up very well. A flat washer can be sanded thinner in order to get the hole lined up. But I don't recommend cotter pins in side of the wheel hub because of the clearance issue. Staking them would work but not a Well as peening.


When our son Bill and I installed the Rocky Mountain brakes on his 1913 Speedster we added another drum and so had to purchase longer bolts. He peened them over per factory specs and they work just fine.

Mine were staked and when I replaced them I did the same. I had also installed the lined replacement brake shoes and had to grind the ends of two longer bolts that hit the shoes so regular lock washers might have been a problem with that. I don't see Locktite being a problem.

Loctite & stake or peen. The use of a lock washer here would make the nut project out farther and could/would cause an interference while rotating.

If you put the bolts in backwards with the nuts on the outside you can always tighten them without a hassle.

Now there's a thought.

Putting them in backwards works great except they don't look so good. The problem is when you peen them a second time you get much less holding power. A quick tap with a welder will tack them in place and is easily undone. The generally is no room for a lock washer and locktite is not sometime I am going to rsik my life to.

I've just installed the wheels on the axels, my question is how much peen or stake. With a center punch I peened them on both sides of the nut. I mean how hard should one nail them? Just to make a little dimple or realy nail it?
Trying to do right
Cecil

Thanks for your input. It seems the nuts from Langs are thinner than originals and I could put a lock washer. I really can't see how I would have clearence issues, but it doesn't sound like any of you advise lock washers. I guess I will have to get out the hammer like Henry did it. (I am working on engine, so I may wait a few days to hear what others say.). I like the idea of tack welds.

Do not weld them! Just a few licks with a hammer on the ends of the threads is enough, just to keep them from backing off. If they need to be tightened up later, just pein them again, it ain't rocket science. Dave

Peen them over. Don't use a lock washer. Use thread locker if you like but it is unnecessary.