This is the adaptor that is ready for installation. We canted the manifold in at the bottom to increase the clearance for the float bowl. It actually fits between the upper and lower part of the channel. The bore is straight thru tapered, using 1/4' cap screws so we have some flexibility in leveling the float bowl. Both the carb and manifold have register ring alignment to make it easier to install.

Sincerely

Jim Weir

Neat stuff, Jim.

So you are going from a bigger carburetor throttle bore to a smaller manifold? Nice fabrication work, but it seems like it woul hurt velocity considerably. Air should not go through bottlenecks for best performance of your engine.

You might be better off with a modification that increases the manifold capacity, say by fabricating a new manifold from mandrel bent aluminum tubing with a plenum that is several times the diameter of the carburetor bore.

Jim, You and Cap do nice work! Can't wait to see it in person.

John; come to the Templeton breakfast on Monday the 20th of June, probably will have it in at least prototype running condition.

Sincerely

Jim Weir

Jim, I'll see you at Hoovers on the 20th!

How does that line up with the throttle linkage?
Norm

Norm; We have to make an offset in the throttle rod and lengthen it. When the hand throttle is raised, it pushes the butterfly closed on the NH, which means the offset would work just fine. When the throttle rod pushes on the Stromberg, the butterfly closes.

Sincerely

Jim Weir

If you look at the picture you can see that the throttle rod is extended about 1/2 inch above the Stromberg throttle actuator. Since the Stromberg actuator can't be rotated -- as it opens and closes the economizer -- I make a longer throttle rod so it is easy to install a clamp type throttle actuator. Some times you have to add a bell crank to make it move in the right direction for the throttle lever on the steering wheel.